Our 5 favourite collections from Paris Menswear Spring 2017

Updated on July 8 2016

While French fashion is usually portrayed as luxurious, opulent and poised, this year there seemed to be a more “throw caution to the wind” vibe, perhaps taking a page out of London’s recent showing, as well as Milan’s burst of vibrant colours just last week.

Prints and colours made their way down the Paris runways, but were perhaps a bit more muted than expected. Clearly the French are still the best at subtle-chic. To prove our point, we highlight five of the best collections.


Post image Related: Our 5 favourite collections from Milan Menswear Spring 2017


Louis Vuitton – Into the wilderness

Clearly there is something in the air these days that’s being inspired by travel. Inspired by the idea of the voyager, Louis Vuitton’s Kim Jones transports menswear into the wild, taking with him the models and everyone who attended the show, on an “expedition” to Africa.

Exotic crocodile and ostrich skins were used on bags and coats, while hints of palm trees and giraffes play hide-and-seek in blue silk shirts. Bags strapped across the body also gave the impression of “camera bags” being carried by explorers.



Valentino – Camouflage cool

Maria Grazia Chirui and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino have stated that this collection was inspired by an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art titled “Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible.”

This seems to translate into frayed hems on shirts and skinny trousers, and thread pulls on knits. Another collection that resonates around exploration, the clothes in the show were almost completely made in camouflage print. Khaki was the main hue, with bits and pieces of ecru and denim as highlights.



Sacai – Child-like striped passion

Chitose Abe’s take on Sacai menswear is filled with an understated utilitarian vibe that translates into oversized parkas with an ethnic influence and tons of layering. There is a child-like playfulness in the clothes, with a quirkiness and a love for layering that looks effortless but still chic.

Also of interest was the array of stripes in the collection — everything from thin, wide, horizontal, vertical, in hues of grey, fuchsia or even multicoloured. Who knew stripes could be so dynamic?



Dior Homme – Au courant rebels

Kris Van Assche, at the helm of Dior Homme, mixed punk rock with a little eighties New Wave vibe, while injecting elements of the very trendy athleisure into his menswear collection. We spied lots of flight jackets in race-car inspired colours mixed with various elements drawn from punk including mesh pullovers (yes see-through ones), plaid shirts and chain necklaces.

What drew our attention to the suits was the rather unfinished, raw sewing of quirky prints that created a 3D effect. Paired with combat boots and visors, Van Assche strategically placed this collection perfectly between punk and sports luxe.



Givenchy – Joy in strange places

Givenchy’s previous menswear collections always had a dark and cultish feel about them. Having said that, Riccardo Tisci himself avowed that this collection is “much more spiritual and happy.”

Tisci’s idea of joyous seems to translate into the use of a dollar bill graphic (ingeniously mixed with camouflage prints) and splashes of vermillion. Quite a different take on joy we must say.