5 creative directors now in charge of your favourite brands

Updated on July 12 2016

There’s been a lot of movement in the fashion industry lately, with creative directors almost seeming to play musical chairs as they move from one brand to another. Maria Grazia Chirui of Valentino is only the latest in some recent moves that have us waiting with bated breath to see what happens to upcoming collections.

While it might be sad for customers, particularly for fans who love a certain brand for a certain aesthetic, these movers and shakers often bring with them a breath of fresh air to brands, shaking things up and making them almost new again.

With that said, we look at five recent movers and shakers, three of whom will be making their debuts this coming Spring 2017, and take a look at what these moves mean for brands, and for the industry as a whole.

Post image Related: Free-spirited rebellion: Valentino Menswear Fall 2016

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Christian Dior: From Raf Simons to Maria Grazia Chiuri

Who:

Former co-creative director of Valentino with Pierpaolo Piccioli, Chiuri is the first female to take a leading creative role at the 69 year-old maison. It is also her first role as a solo artistic director after working for more than two decades as a team.

What to expect:

Simons made Dior his own with an architectural, clean and futuristic style. Chiuri’s Valentino was very much about fairytale-like, flowy dresses and decorative embellishments drawing inspiration from modern dance and Italian Pop art. We are hoping to see a good mix of the two with Chiuri’s debut collection.

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Saint Laurent: From Hedi Slimane to Anthony Vaccarello

Who:

The Italian-Belgian fashion designer, was previously Creative Director at Versus. An ex-law student and an honours graduate in fashion, Vaccarello worked with Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi before launching his eponymous label in Paris.

What to expect:

Slimane’s aesthetic for Saint Laurent was an edgy, rocker chic and we think Vacarello’s provocative, thigh-high slits and mini dresses which he designed for Versus has a similar rock-grunge appeal. How he plans to take it to the next level will be exciting to see.

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Balenciaga: From Alexander Wang to Demna Gvasalia

Who:

Head designer of Vetements, Gvasalia popularised the “ugly” aesthetic in rebellion against fashion’s traditional glitz and glamour. An alumni of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, he was once senior designer for both Louis Vuitton and Maison Martin Margiela.

What to expect:

Anything and everything that is unconventional, including more of the ugly aesthetic, questioning society’s normal connotations of beauty. His debut collection for Fall 2016 was all about those oversized “market bags,” while his Spring Menswear 2017 had lots of Vetements-like references such as boxy silhouettes and an exaggerate shoulder.

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Lanvin: From Alber Elbaz to Bouchra Jarrar

Who: 

Working alongside Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga back in 1996, Jarrar was also once the head of Christian Lacroix haute couture before embarking on her own label. The French designer specialises in haute couture and is also a chevalier of the Ordre des Arts et des Lettres (Order of Arts and Letters).

What to expect:

Jarrar’s French background and Parisienne aesthetics (think elements of rock with a certain je ne sais quoi) is what inherently forms her eponymous label, which means we could be seeing more leopard print, leather, tailored coats and sleek tailoring.

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Mulberry: From Emma Hill to Johnny Coca

Who:

Ex-head designer for accessories at Céline, Johnny Coca took over as Mulberry’s creative director in July 2015, after Emma Hill’s departure. Prior to working with Phoebe Philo, the Seville-born designer also worked alongside Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton.

What to expect:

Mulberry is undergoing lots of change from a new logo to brand new bag styles. We spy classic and extremely functional pieces, very suitable for the working women or anyone who likes to pack their whole life into one bag. A familiar style the Céline bags are known for.