When Louis Vuitton announced Virgil Abloh as the new artistic director of its menswear collection back in March, the groundbreaking news buzzed the sartorial world. Also the creative designer behind the cult streetwear label Off White, Abloh is regarded as the first designer of colour in history to helm the haute couture brand.
On Thursday afternoon, as the sun shone bright on the Palais-Royale gardens, the American designer introduced his first Louis Vuitton’s menswear collection on the prismatic runway at Paris Fashion Week, rewriting history of the French fashion powerhouse. Arguably the pinnacle of the fashion month, his show welcomed all nationalities and identities, with a model line-up including representatives from every continent in the world.
This 56-look collection was inspired by what Abloh called Colour Theory — the color explosion that occurs when white light hits a prism. The show opened with a delicate eggshell white colour theme, followed by a series of vivid shades such as scarlet red, cobalt blue and lush green. In the opening series, the models walked the painted-rainbow catwalk in sophisticated blazers, tailored suits and structured trousers. Then, the moodboard was shifted towards the end, featuring more intricate prints and patterns. And of course, the signature bags were given an update, too — think Keepall, Runner and Petit-Malle, with some in colourful iridescent plastic and chains, and others in matte leather with the classic hardware detailing.