Aside from taste and presentation, Japanese cuisine places primary importance on high-quality seasonal ingredients. Every course has its appropriate season, carefully crafted to ensure that flavours are in harmony with nature. French haute cuisine is a supreme expression of the culinary arts, showcasing complex cooking techniques and some of the richest flavour combinations. Marrying the two culinary styles at Mezzaluna, Chef de Cuisine Ryuki Kawasaki invites you to unearth a mouth-watering collection of autumn flavours.
From now until mid-December, treat yourself to an indulgent five- or seven-course tasting menu (THB 4,900 and THB 5,900 per person), and savour the stunning skyline and river views from 65 floors above street level. And of course, you’re more than welcomed to complete the experience with exquisite wine pairings (THB 2,500 and THB 3,500 per person).
Ambiance
The pleasing effects of simple, elegant details — warm teak wood décor, soothing violin tunes and a delicious fragrance wafting from the open kitchen — invite you to relax almost immediately when you step into Mezzaluna. Situated at The Dome within Lebua State Tower, the restaurant’s interior design follows the unique curve of the dome. Sky high on the 65th floor, the open floor plan of this elegant dining space is adorned with glazed floor-to-ceiling windows, framing spectacular vistas of the Chao Phraya River and beyond. Floors and ceilings features shades cream and caramel shades, which work their magic on rich hardwood tones. Each of the tables is carefully positioned to give you a sense of privacy, and the low-level ambient lights complement the romantic candlelit atmosphere.
Food & Drink
At Mezzaluna, Chef Kawasaki highlights special seasonal ingredients, making the most out of the freshest produce available. This fall, the menu plays with a variety of autumnal textures, vibrant colours and rich aromas.
Dinner begins with an outstanding starter: mandarin orange yellowtail tartare with autumn fennel, golden trout roe, Thai basil and souju olive oil. Yellowtail is actually a favourite wintertime fish in Japan, and it boasts a wonderfully rich and meaty texture. With a bright citrus touch, the refreshing fish tartare tickles the palate and stimulates the appetite. The luscious addition of souju olive oil not only gives the fish a lovely sheen, but it’ll also titillates the senses with its fruity, pungent flavours.
The coffee-smoked Nova Scotia lobster is easily one of our favourite dishes on this autumn tasting menu. One of Canada’s most treasured ocean delicacies, Nova Scotia lobster is prized for its succulent flavour and a firm, meaty texture not found in other lobster varieties. Smoking the lobster à la minute at your table goes a long way. The roasted coffee aroma enhances the mild, delicate flavour of sea crustacean, adding an interesting smoky dimension to the dish. Pairing lobster with chestnut is a bit unusual, but to our surprise, the lush flavours of the lobster do not overpower the sweet nuttiness.
Next is a stunning dish of porcini-crusted sea bass served with prawn, kabocha squash and Brussel sprouts. Finished with an aromatic curry oil and luscious crustacean jus, the dish is an interplay of different textures and aromas. Moist and fresh, with a soft and slightly flaky texture, the sea bass has a rich, buttery mouthfeel, which also enriches the flavours of the porcini mushrooms.
When it comes to the last main, you can choose between the Niigata Murakami wagyu beef and the succulent suckling pig. Following the chef’s recommendation, we selected the wagyu beef, as the meat originates from chef’s very own hometown in the far north of Niigata Prefecture. Exclusive to Mezzaluna, the Niigata Murakami wagyu beef is a rare luxury in Bangkok. The exquisite cut boasts a marbling score of A5, and it’s served with onion soubise and winter vegetables like salsify and endives. The charcoal-crusted wagyu beef is specifically grilled over binchō-tan, or white hardwood charcoal, which is essential for Japanese grilling because its smokeless long burn draws out the umami flavour of the meat.
The tasting menu ends on a sweet note with two lovely dessert options: poached comice pear and chocolate arcanjo noir. With an elusive spiciness from the cinnamon crumble, the sweet vanilla-poached pear is perfectly paired with a luscious ginger-maple ice cream. If you’re a serious chocolate lover — who isn’t? — it’ll be hard not to pick the chocolate arcanjo noir. The dessert does not only feature a decadent dark chocolate mousse but other playful components such as crisp-crunch banana cremeux, tangy passion fruit mousse, and banana-passion fruit sorbet.
Verdict
Unlike any ordinary set menu, chef Kawasaki’s multi-course meal is a true culinary journey with fresh flavour combinations that reflect the season. Fusing his French cooking expertise with distinctive Japanese ingredients, chef Kawasaki creates artful plates that not only combine different flavours, but utilise inventive culinary techniques as well. With Mezzaluna’s elegant interiors and romantic setting, it’s safe to say this is high on our list when it comes to special occasions and intimate social gatherings.
Mezzaluna, Lebua State Tower, 1055 Silom Road, Bangrak, Bangkok, +66 2 624 9555
Rachel Kwok
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