A few years ago in Bangkok’s meatpacking district, of sorts, an urban farm-centred restaurant emerged in the wake of the farm-to-table movement.
Nestled in the small street of Sukhumvit Soi 31, Haoma is an eatery planted in the midst of Chef Deepanker “DK” Khosla’s flourishing vegetable plots and small fish farm — which are the cornerstones of his veggie-centric restaurant. Combining his culinary experiences with the greens and herbs he grows, chef DK unceasingly creates new mind-blowing dishes using only the freshest in produce from his and other local organic farms to wow city dwellers’ palates.
Having curated his own ecosystem within a limited piece of land, Chef DK is able to grow over 30 types of veggies and to raise over 3 kinds of fish to support his own sustainability-focused restaurant. This is just one of a few living proofs that confirm Haoma is one of Bangkok’s leading urban-farm vanguards.
This year, bringing us again his freshest take on the farm-grown cuisine, Haoma proudly presents its new 13-course Nature menu (THB 2,590++) which, this time, includes many more quality meat-fuelled dishes complemented by fresh produced plucked from his own garden. So if you happen to be a fitness devotee or also a soon-to-be urban farmer, seek this metropolitan oasis out and gorge on some finger-licking-good creations that will make you feel healthy as well as satisfy your roaring stomach.
Oyster & Corn Tartare
Atop the bread crisp made out of brioche is a delightful mixture of oyster & corn tartare inspire by the chef’s trip to Surat Thani where he unearthed local pristine oysters for the first time. However, what makes this dish spectacular is not the added brioche crisp but the jelly-like pieces appearing to look like corn whereby the kernels have been separated and put back together before getting the glowing finish. The dish boasts a trio of textures – meaty, crispy and creamy. This Oyster & Corn Tartare is sure to be an entry point to the taste of farm produce and pure flavours of Thailand’s marine food.
The Disappearing Duck
For this playful dish, the chef wanted to portray to the diners how, at the farm he last visited, the ducks would dart wildly around the field before disappearing into the bushes. The dish is comprised of duck rillettes, herbs from around the restaurant garden, sticky rice and duck-shaped mousse. Once the Northern-style curry is poured onto the dish, the hot pungent soup will immediately melt the mousse down and what is left is a umami-packed and creamier sauce.
Imagine a waffle cone filled up with soft serve and topped with an avalanche of sprinkles: that’s the closest picture we can give you when talking about Golgappa – except this Indian common street snack is in the form of savoury not sweet. For this one, Haoma keeps it true to the tradition; the hollow whole wheat crisp is filled with chickpea, potato, mint and tamarind mixture before getting topped with Haoma’s house-made yoghurt for some bright acidity. The way to eat Golgappa right is to follow the one-bitee rule. Fair warning: the fried glory can be quite addictive. So make sure you save some room for the other 12 courses they’ll be serving.
Wagyu Short Ribs
The look of this dish might not create a “wow” moment — but believe you me, its extraordinary taste and texture will. Haoma embraces the steak by involving new creative components like fermented buckwheat and tea-infused gravy, which make this Wagyu Short Ribs dish even more toothsome and appetising. Though not as popular as other members in its cereal grain family, buckwheat shares mild and slightly nutty flavours with a chewy texture that is packed with protein, vitamins and magnesium. Once paired with the short ribs that have been showered in the sumptuous sauce, the dish gives off a dense and intense mouthfeel without making you feel too stuffed to eat butter-laden mashed potato. The dish is also gluten-free so those who are trying to avoid gluten will be perfectly happy with this one.
Haoma in a Bite
Have you ever wondered what Haoma tastes like? Try this elegant veggie roll stuffed with Haoma-raised organic fish and sweet slash tangy raisin jam. Using garden produce and fish from its own in-house farm, this one-bite dish captures Haoma’s farm-to-table concept ever so vividly.
Black and White
We all love that twist – dip – dunk concept of an Oreo. But what if the chocolate-flavoured cookie could be eaten with just a spoon? So to put a childhood memory in a bowl, Haoma whips up Oreo ice cream – the black one representing the cocoa-enriched cookie whilst the white one representing the sweet cream filling – to replicate the amazing taste of the Oreo cookie everyone loves.
Haoma, 231/3 Sukhumvit Rd, Khlong Toei Nuea, Bangkok, +662 258 4744