Fashion is in an ever changing state. Those who follow it can’t get enough and those who don’t, seem to be overwhelmed by any and every new designer name that comes into the industry.

The last past years especially, have seen underground currents take over the mainstream, with the arrival of underdogs at the head of the most influential fashion labels. With trailblazers like Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton and Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga, new designers are following the two superstars paths to greatness. These are the names that will most likely make waves in the industry in the upcoming years.

 

Emily Bode

 

Emily Bode’s own brand has been around for a few seasons. From the first collection, her niche followers rapidly saw in her craft something unique: a sense of effortlessness that sticks to the clothing she imagines. The chic workwear Bode NYC has this offhand prance only NYC natives seem to be bathing in. The design process reminds us of Dapper Dan’s rework and repurpose techniques, with an equal knowledge of fabrics and volumes. So, if his name rings a bell, then you should probably keep an eye on Bode New York. Before we forget: Emily Bode is part of this years’ eight LVMH Prize finalists.

 

 

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Heron Preston

 

Heron Preston is probably your favourite creative’s favourite creative. He’s been, just like Virgil Abloh and Jerry Lorenzo, operating under Kanye West, during his massive pop-culture breakthrough, in the mid-2000s. The designer has been involved in some of the biggest artistic and streetwear movements that we are seeing gaining attention — and hence, investments — today. A few years back, he eventually presented his own brand, fittingly named Heron Preston. As you’d imagine, such a groundbreaking aesthetic does not go unnoticed. The American multiplied the art direction projects with for worldwide entities: NASA and Nike. The latter include several sneaker and high-end streetwear creations. His brand isn’t left out, though, as the designer also keeps releasing statement pieces under his own label. But the Heron Preston ideal doesn’t stop here… “A lot of my everyday essentials are up-cycled from fabrics that would have literally filled a land field, I try to have people think about that”, the American designer reveals.  

 

Disclaimer: the following fact is scientifically verified, and documentation exists! The industrial air force and military aesthetic pioneer managed to literally touch the sky last summer, launching his NASA collaboration to the verge of space.

 

 

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Ronnie Fieg

 

It is not unusual for sneaker enthusiasts to go crazy at the simple sound of his name. The New York born and raised designer started working for his uncle’s store at the early age of 13. With the years, he became his family’s store head buyer — and developed a unique taste for sneakers that would eventually lead him to a first collaboration with sports brand Asics — which in turn led him to an unanimous recognition. After a few successful collaborations with important sportswear brands, the New Yorker launched his own. He called it Kith. ‘RF’ opened his first store in SoHo, NYC, in 2011. The multi-brand’s aesthetically pleasing boutique, opened the way for all of the Kith flagships that popped up in Miami.  This success, combined with his experience as a shoe designer, and the incredible hype surrounding the streetwear and footwear industries, made both Kith and Ronnie Fieg reach new heights. Lately, we’ve seen his brand collaborate with the likes of Versace, Tommy Hilfiger and Selfridges. Best believe our Jamaica Queens native isn’t planning on stopping here.

 

 

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Jacquemus

 

Simon Porte Jacquemus comes from a long heritage of French couture. The Frenchman was born and raised in the south of France, before moving to Paris at the age of 18 to study fashion. When he was 20, his mother passed. The young man then decided to pursue his lifelong dream: launching his own label, to which he gave his mother’s maiden name. For a few years now, the designer has been acknowledged by his peers as one of France’s very best talents, declining classic French vestiaire pieces into different materials and shapes. Critics on all sides of the spectrum see great value to the Frenchman’s work. Wardrobe basics become sophisticated, while more intricate pieces radiate a casual glow, like a second nature. To many, the work of Jacquemus shows the same flavour as France’s southern literature. “The clothes are just decoration for my stories.” the French designer admits. “You have to know I had a blog when I was 13, 14, 15. It was very famous in France. It was like my Instagram now.”, he continues, revealing how strong of a taste the young man has for storytelling.

 

 

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Yoon Ambush

 

She’s already had a remarkable 2019. When Yoon and Nike teamed up for the release of a Nike x Ambush collection, many heads turned to the young creative, wondering where she was coming from. The Japanese designer has for a long time been a part of the pop art and pop culture movement in fashion, though. She’s also an important part in the success of the pop art look that reached its heights at the end of the 2000s. “We belong to a generation of designers who grew up on skate culture and street clothes in the 1990s and 2000s, so naturally it gets manifested in our creations,” replies Yoon Ahn, when asked about her current inspirations. Ten years ago Yoon introduced the world to Ambush, a jewellery brand that tossed out the boring, to bring out the fun with an American pop culture infused, colourful collection of necklaces, rings and pendants. Since then, the brand has evolved and explored new directions. So much that the Korean-American has been noticed by none other than Dior. Under Kim Jones’ impulsion, the French maison has named her at the direction of its jewellery department.

 

 

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Bianca Saunders

 

She’s probably the lesser known in this list, and that tells a lot about her! The young designer has recently graduated from the Royal college of Art in London, having menswear design as the focus. She, previous to that, ranked first at the Sophie Hallette lace competition. Saunders’ work is an exploration that is just in the very beginning, where identity is being the first thing that the designer wants to look into. The new face in the industry is trying to show the world who the Bianca Saunders man is, no matter how he may look. In other terms, a man that doesn’t seek another man’s validation to wear the pieces that makes him feel masculine. The London-based creator has a bright path ahead, as her brand awareness and faithfulness keeps growing.

 

 

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Tawfik Akachar
Senior Writer, Paris
Tawfik is a pop culture enthusiast that has a soft spot for the study of emerging movements, casual chic fashion, and technical clothing. Although he loves different foods from all parts of the globe, he considers fried chicken to be the best dish, ever.