Led by Chef Sato Kiyoshi, Artifact presents a refined chef’s degustation menu based on shun, the Japanese philosophy for seasonality. The menu also incorporates diverse forms of caviar, each meticulously picked for the best pairing with the jet-fresh ingredients from Japan.
A Review of Artifact
Walking through a food court – albeit a high-end one – to look for a fine dining experience is probably going to be an experience by itself for many people. But a little patience and an open mind will bring rewards to those who persevere.
Artifact, described as an upscale chef’s table and speakeasy bar, is situated at one end of the newly-opened Basehall 02, hidden from the masses by a row of greenery. The 14-seat counter modern Japanese dining experience is led by Chef Kiyoshi, who oversaw the Japanese offerings from the Pirata group, and was most recently at Silencio.
The restaurant offer an eight-course dinner omakase menu ($1,288) and a four-course option for lunch ($488). Given the location, I have to admit to having some reservations about what the experience would be like and, boy, was I wrong.
Starting from the amuse bouche, each course was unveiled with creative presentation and layered tastes. The meal proper unfolded with the small bites of namerou (minced fish) tart, polmard, and takoyaki (octopus ball) sitting on a floral base, which came with kaluga or ossetra caviar.
Diners can also opt for a $788 full caviar supplement for each course, which we were thankful we opted for when the next course came. The scallop, with a hint of wasabi, sat on a base of turnip slicked, jelly, and a generous layer of kaluga caviar: taken together, each layer adding to the burst of flavours in each mouthful.
The hero of the set was undoubtedly the carabineros matched with citrus and a miso cream, supplemented with baerii caviar. The tangy orange and citrus brought out the sweetness of the red prawns.
Given the meticulous care of the other courses, the bread was rather plain and a little disappointing and we felt that it wasted the tasty kombu and yukari spread. Hopefully it will be better when they start making their own bread, which Chef Sato says they will do soon.
It’s hard to go wrong with the kinmedai if you get the skin crunch right, as was the case here, and keep the moistness of the meat. The wagyu with maitake mushroom was excellent with the special autumn soy sauce acting as the perfect foil to the fattiness of the wagyu.
The beef was served with sticky rice and burdock root, topped with a rich orange egg yolk. It completed the savoury part of the menu to perfection. The meal was completed with the yoghurt with yuzu-kiku whose appearance belied its tastiness, and a chocolate, coffee and vanilla ice-cream dessert.
Special mention should be made to some excellent choices for the wine pairing, including an excellent Charming Gruner Veltliner Laurenz V 2018 from Austria, despite the restaurant’s limited wine storage space.
Cuisine
Modern Japanese
The Highlights
In the Instagram age, it’s hard to blame chefs for trying to overplay the presentation of the dishes, sadly at the expense of the taste itself. Chef Sato has managed to achieve an intricate balance between presentation and tastes, offering surprises with each bite. The location isn’t ideal, as it can get very busy at lunch time. Fortunately, though, it’s right at the end of Basehall 02 and shielded enough by the row of greenery to hallow for decent conversations. The price point, especially for lunch, makes it a very attractive option for business or pleasure.
Quick Notes
Price for two
$976 for lunch and $2,576 for dinner (+ 10%)
Address
No, 1 & 2, Shop 5 & 7, LG/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Hong Kong
Opening Hours
Tuesday to Saturday from 12:00 to 15:00 / 18:00 to 23:00
Winnie Chung
Winnie Chung is an experienced lifestyle journalist who has covered everything from showbiz and Hong Kong films, to food, and all things luxury. After being grounded by the pandemic, she found a renewed appreciation for Hong Kong's vibrant and diverse dining scene.
Most Popular
