The Fall/Winter 2021 menswear shows have now come and gone.
How we dress and for what occasion we dress for has fundamentally changed in the past year. We’re still largely land-bound; travel is but a fantasy these days. Travel to work, even, is a big question-mark. The trends we’ve noted down — be it comfort suiting or above-the-keyboard accessorising — can all be attributed to this revamp of life at large.
(Header image courtesy of Hermès)
We may chuckle at business-on-top, above-the-keyboard combinations that appear well-heeled when — just beyond the confines of the visible Zoom window — are sweatpants, fuzzy socks and house slippers. As work-from-house routines continue to define how one spends their nine-to-fives, the influence of homewear trends are inescapable.
In comes, we assume, a renaissance for suiting. The dress pants presented at Hermès‘ show bid adieu to French bearers and, instead, fastens with an easy drawstring waist. The super-wide legs at Dries Van Noten have similar comfort-first aspirations. Isabel Marant’s hi-lo, blazer-over-windbreaker styling adds a final finishing touch. It’s suiting, without the stuffy connotations. Suiting, simplified.
We’re attributing this trend largely to the one-and-only: Mr. Harry Styles. Not one to shy from ‘out there’ pieces, the One Direction alum is no stranger to a string of pearls; in fact, the pearl necklace has been one of his favourite accessories to date, with its appearance on outfits that span from a casual white T-shirt to red-carpet blazer-topped ensembles.
Jil Sander’s accessory pieces — which range from tiered necklaces to silk ascots — added such statement oomph to the core collection. We’re particularly loving the worn-over-collared-coat way of styling neck accessories.
Some things are tried and true. A white T-shirt and indigo denim, for one. Tartan plaid as an indicator of autumnal designs, for another.
Checkered grids in colourways like navy, maroon and cream whites are a mainstay for cold-weather collections; the Fall/Winter 2021 presentations, however, renders the patterns in more inventive colour combinations — think bright oranges at Hermès and neon yellow at Louis Vuitton.
The Oversized Overcoat
It’s a big, big world with big, big coats this Fall/Winter 2021. Proportions are generous this season; first noted with suiting pants that err on the side of ultra-wide at Dries Van Noten, but even more so within outerwear as shoulder slope downwards in profiles that drape rather than taper.
The dramatic trains that graze the floor at Louis Vuitton are just a touch on the side of grandiose; the overcoat over at The Row, however, are veritable wardrobe staples — an easy layer to top off a wintry ensemble.
It’s a heady combination of 90’s Americana trends and the proliferation of cut-and-sew separates. Sports-adjacent inspiration — or, more accurately, leisurely activities like equestrianism and tennis — have largely contributed to what ‘luxury’ stands for. What’s more luxurious than activities done simply for pleasure, after all?
We’re talking rugby stripes, varsity bomber jackets and baseball inspired layers. It’s grown-up sports day, with personalisation options ready at hand — see: Louis Vuitton’s chenille patches, branded with the House’s initials.