The seemingly endless list of designer exits — including the likes of Alexander Wang, Thom Browne and Altuzarra — from New York Fashion Week has hit the semi-annual event hard over the last few seasons, leaving us all secretly questioning whether the CFDA-helmed fashion week is on a tumultuous downward spiral.
As the start of the upcoming fashion month draws close, however, we have some good news for you: CFDA has released a preliminary official timetable for next month’s New York Fashion Week SS19, which will run from 6 to 12 September, with some rather optimistic shake ups and brand additions to look forward to. Scroll down to find out some of the top highlights.
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- Rodarte and Proenza Schouler are back from Paris
- Ralph Lauren takes over Manhattan's Central Park for its 50th anniversary show
- Escada and Longchamp to stage runway debut at NYFW
- Vivienne Westwood's presentation is for buyers only
- LVMH Prize winner Kozaburo will be showing for the first time
- Marchesa is back
- No sign of Alexander Wang and Rosie Assoulin
Rodarte was amongst the first of the major brands to bid farewell to New York Fashion Week in favour of Paris, but recently the brand has announced its decision to make its way back to the Big Apple next month, during which the brand will go back to hosting runway shows instead of releasing lookbooks for its newest collections. Joining them in their return is another American brand Proenza Schouler, who not only moved its runway shows to the French capital for the last two seasons, but also ditched the traditional schedule altogether by showing its ready-to-wear collections during couture weeks. (Both Thom Browne and Altuzarra, however, will continue to show in Paris.)
American designer Ralph Lauren will celebrate the 50th birthday of his eponymous brand by hosting a special anniversary show at Manhattan’s Central Park. The catwalk will be set against the famed Bethesda Terrace fountain, followed by an alfresco dinner for VIP guests. According to a statement by the brand, the arrangements are the designer’s attempt to pay homage to his hometown of New York City — the epicentre of American and global fashion — and to the industry that he helped create and lead over five decades.
Escada has been going through an image revamp lately, welcoming new changes from the appointment of designer Niall Sloane, to a new store concept on London’s Sloane Street. In conjunction with this year’s 40th anniversary, Escada is planning to host its first runway show at New York Fashion Week, with the aim to reach a broader, more international audience. Also making a debut at NYFW is Longchamp, which will be staging its first official catwalk show in its 70-year history. The Parisian brand will also be hosting another event at the Opéra Garnier in Paris soon after, commemorating its 70th anniversary.
Last year, fashion’s queen of punk and environmental activist Vivienne Westwood announced her decision to cease all catwalk shows and replace them with digital presentations in the forms of short films and photographs. For next month’s New York Fashion Week, however, the designer has decided to stage a presentation solely for buyers. She then plans to host another runway show during Paris Fashion Week later in the month, with both press and buyers invited.
Joining other new fashion design talents including eveningwear designer Christopher John Rogers, CFDA Lexus Initiative winner Studio 189, and ready-to-wear label Marina Moscone, LVMH Prize winner Kozaburo Akasaka will present his collections at New York Fashion Week for the very first time.
After sitting out from last season’s fashion week amidst the Harvey Weinstein scandal, Marchesa, the fashion label co-founded by Weinstein’s estranged wife, Georgina Chapman, is announcing its return to the fashion schedule this September. The brand seems to have been building up its exposure for an attempted comeback for awhile now, with Scarlett Johansson donning a Marchesa gown at the Met Gala earlier this year, and Vanessa Hudgens appearing in a gown from the label at a movie premiere just this month. Even so, the brand seems to have decided to maintain its low profile for the time being, with its latest creations available for showing by appointment only.
After bidding farewell to NYFW last season, Alexander Wang has not only shifted his fashion shows to a June/December schedule to coincide with the retail calendar, he’s also quit using seasonal names all together, calling his off-schedule collection, which he presented this June, ‘Collection 1’. Rosie Assoulin has also opted for the June/December timeframe, and has already presented her Spring 2019 collection together with the Resort 2019 collection earlier in June.