Sexy, provocative, and dangerous, it was all about the good girls who like hanging out with the bad boys.
Anthony Vaccarello‘s Saint Laurent has always been something sexy but with an attitude; provocative but sophisticated; coupled with an excess amount of confidence and more to spare. For the Fall/Winter 2020 season, he’s given us a little something extra: a delicious sense of danger. Oh, and colours too.
Presented on a Tuesday night by the Eiffel Tower, Vaccarello welcomed his guests to a runway lined with orbed lights, one that reminded us a bit of the Bond movie, setting the tone for what’s to come. The collection, influenced by ‘Saint Laurent’s well-behaved and overly bourgeoise elegance of the Nineties’, takes a dangerous turn, and paints the picture of a wealthy, intelligent woman who loves to take risks. You’ll find her travelling between gilded salons and nocturnal places, wearing silk, lace, cashmere and latex.
Yes, latex, lots of it; whether it’s skintight pants, bustier tops, wrap coats or body-hugging dresses, almost every single look is covered in this shiny fabric. The smooth, glossy texture was presented in juxtaposition with lace bra tops and pussy-bow blouses, layered with exquisite double-breasted jackets. These beautiful outerwear were all impeccably tailored and crafted from an extended range of fabrics found in the house’s archives, decked out in jewelled tones and borderline colours and patterns from houndstooth checks to panther, polka dots and more. The shoes, too, were to-die-for, appearing in a sleek, point-toe, thigh-high design crafted from — yes, you guessed it — latex. Too much? Not to worry, there are also plenty of good girl ankle-strap pumps in various styles for you to choose from.
Of course, in a post #MeToo world where Harvey Weinstein’s finally facing jail time for his rape convictions, some might find themselves raising their eyebrows thinking whether we need more latex leggings and revealing bra tops going around. But, as Vaccarello explains in his show notes, “I wanted to find the balance between control and abandonment, the tension between discipline and pleasure that defines the modernity of Saint Laurent.” We think this collection tells the story of an intelligent woman who knows what she wants to do and is not afraid of doing it; someone who is powerful enough to set herself free from common perceptions, and take charge in writing her own story in her own way, despite what other people think.
For Vaccarello, Saint Laurent is about embracing the danger, and he has expressed it beautifully in his Fall/Winter 2020 creations. Watch the video below to see the full collection.