Still riding on the (well-deserved) high of its wildly popular collaboration with MB&F, independent Swiss watchmaker H. Moser has just launched another timepiece for 2020 as part of its Pioneer collection. Distinguished by skeleton hands, sleek rubber straps, and Moser’s signature fumé treatment, the original Pioneer Centre Seconds debuted to a warm reception back in 2015.

Since then, the watch has steadily expanded into a full collection: now available in a range of different colours, or even as a suitably stripped-down riff on the perpetual calendar. Unlike Moser’s aforementioned experimentations with the Legacy Machine, the latest Pioneer Centre Seconds is a pretty simplistic affair — possessing the same dimensions and spec sheet as its green, blue and grey-hued brethren. What is different this time around however is the precise shade of fumé — something that the brand calls ‘Swiss Mad Red.’

Pioneer Centre Seconds

Reportedly inspired by the Swiss Mad Watch Moser made in 2017 (an apt name considering that the case was made from a composite material that incorporated actual Mont d’Or cheese), the dial more correctly captures the vibrant hue of Switzerland’s national flag — and then some.

In classic Moser fashion, the complexity of the ‘mad red’ fumé is in a class all its own. The colour has an almost claret-like hue around the dial’s edges, and graduates (very evenly) to a vibrant postbox red around the handset. As with the other pieces in the Pioneer lineup, I’d wager this is one of those watches that must unquestionably be experienced ‘in the metal’ — owing to the unique, multi-stage process Moser uses to achieve its characteristic smoky dials.

Pioneer Centre Seconds

Looking briefly at technical specs, the ‘Swiss Mad Red’ hews to all of the existing attributes Moser nerds love and expect. At 42.8mm x 15mm, it is by no means a compact watch, but the Pioneer’s considered design queues and streamlined build quality help to achieve a look best described as definite yet dignified. The movement’s three-day power reserve helps its credibility as a daily wearer; though there’s an equally compelling argument to be made that between the case, size and comfortable rubber strap, you’ll get the most use out of this whilst doing something suitably athletic on weekends.

The H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds in ‘Swiss Mad Red’ is now available, priced at HK$103,000. To learn more and order direct, visit Moser’s e-store.

Randy Lai
Having worked in the Australian digital media landscape for over 5 years, Randy has extensive experience in men's specialist categories such as classic clothing, watches and spirits. He is partial to mid-century chronographs and a nice chianti.