The finest watches in the world are built to last for generations, but even amongst the upper echelon of watchmakers, creating a diver’s watch is no easy feat, given that its most important function is to protect the life of its wearer. Accordingly, diver’s watches require the very best in technology, design and construction — they’ve got to be reliable and guaranteed to deliver high-performance results. As the watchmaking master of technicality and engineering, Richard Mille offers exactly that with three watches — RM 025 Tourbillon Chronograph Diver’s Watch, RM 028 Automatic Diver’s Watch and RM 032 Automatic Chronograph Diver’s Watch — all equipped with specifications dedicated to the unique needs of diving.
Take a look at all three watches, and the first thing you’ll notice is that they all share a round case-shape, as opposed to Richard Mille’s iconic tonneau-shaped design. There’s a very technical reason for this: To adhere to the ISO 6425 standards for diver’s watches (regulated by the International Organization for Standardization), it’s only possible to reach a water resistance of 30 atmospheres (300 metres) with a round case.
To achieve this resistance, all three watches are constructed with a unique tripartite case, which is complimented by the additional integration of lugs into the case’s torque screw system, as well as the dynamometric crown and watertight pushers — all working together to create a perfect environment to house Richard Mille’s signature skeletonised movements and rotor geometry. The dial, meanwhile, is made from a 0.40-mm-thick sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, allowing you to see the extraordinary movement with the utmost clarity.
To avoid any timing miscalculations during your dive, there is also an unidirectional bezel that can be rotated by holding down the two push-buttons positioned at 12 and 6 o’clock. It also features a three-layer construction connected with multiple torque screws (22 for RM 025, and 24 for RM 028 and RM 032), making it absolutely stable and impossible to dislodge from the case in any circumstances. And if you happen to get caught in murky conditions, don’t fret, as the watchmaker has especially highlighted the five-minute markers of the first quarter in red, to enhance visibility in the underwater environment.
As for the movements, the RM 025 houses a carbon nanofiber tourbillon chronograph — a design based on the famed calibre RM 008 — which unites the complication of a tourbillon with the complexities of a chronograph movement. The RM 028, meanwhile, is installed with an automatic movement that has a unique rotor with variable geometry, allowing the level of automatic winding to be adjusted according to the user’s lifestyle, all via the setting of two 18 -carat white gold wings.
The most unique piece of the three, however, is the RM 032 Automatic Chronograph Diver’s Watch, which features an innovative calibre RMAC2 with 62 jewels and beating at 4Hz, as well as a free sprung balance with variable inertia. This type of balance wheel guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock, and also during movement assembly and disassembly. As a result, it offers better chronometric results over time.
The case of the RM 032, in particular, is currently considered as one of the most challenging to manufacture in the entire world of horology. The tripartite case undergoes 830 operations during a 9-hour milling phase; at the end of an 11-hour machining phase, each case is subjected to a 1-hour quality control test to ensure that it meets rigorous standards.
The straps for all three diver’s watches, meanwhile, are also products of innovation, as they are made of perfluoroelastomer Kairez, a material that’s typically used in the pharmaceutical and aerospace industries for its superior tolerance to sun, water, heat and chemical agents. This special material offers improved longevity over a normal rubber strap.
The RM 025 Tourbillon Chronograph Diver’s Watch, RM 028 Automatic Diver’s Watch and RM 032 Automatic Chronograph Diver’s Watch are all available in 18-carat red or white gold and titanium, and can be found at Richard Mille’s boutiques worldwide.
Richard Mille, Shop 328, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong, +852 2918 9696; Shop 2036, Elements, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon, Hong Kong, +852 2466 1268