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Lucia Pica, Chanel’s head of beauty, on how to get the FW 20 runway look

Every year, we look forward to Lucia Pica and her beauty canvas on the Chanel runways. Chanel’s Global Creative Make-up and Colour Designer at the Fall Winter Ready-to-wear 2020/21 Show, this year, has made sure her imagination took a more subtler, more sophisticated route — think glowing for summer.

The Naples-born makeup artiste, who has previously assisted Charlotte Tilbury and worked with renowned photographers like Alasdair McLellan and Walter Pfeiffer, is known to be unconventional yet practical with the looks she creates. Her work is imaginative and wild, but still wearable and effortless. Pica, who was also listed in Business of Fashion BOF500 as a star to look out for and an influential artiste, created an ode to the girl of today — earthy, fluid, real — as part of Chanel’s Fall/Winter Ready-to-Wear 2020/21 Show. Here, she gives us a lowdown on the looks she created and the products used

Luca pica

What were your sources of inspiration for this makeup?  

The vibe and the energy of the makeup is a very heightened freshness with a 70’s twist. It’s about girls outdoors having blushed cheeks, glow on the skin. I added a touch of glamour by putting gloss on the lips.  

Can you describe the fashion show makeup?

There are two looks on the show. 

One is supernatural, fresh and glowy. The products I used for the skin are: Les Beiges Eau De Teint and Palette Essentielle. Then, I used the Baume Essentiel Transparent high on the cheekbones and on the eyelids. I also applied the mascara Le Volume Revolution De Chanel on the top and bottom lashes. Eyebrows are groomed, brushed up with a boyish feel. I added Rouge Coco Gloss Aphrodite on the lips.

For the second look, we have the same base. However, on the eyes, I added more depth and diffusion with a light taupe color. This look has a little bit more of the 70’s vibe with Rouge Coco Gloss Aphrodite on the lips, which gives a very slight touch of glamour. 

On the eyes, I applied Stylo Ombre Et Contour Contour Clair on the top of the lash line until the outer corner and finally on the socket line. Then, I really blend it. Finally, I applied it underneath, through the lash line and united the makeup with the top part. Everything is very blended and diffused. This look doesn’t have the balm on the top of the lid, so it has a matte finish. It’s all about the freshness of the skin and high-pigmented glossy cheekbones. 

Do you have any professional tips and tricks to share with us? 

I used the Palette Essentielle Beige Médium very high on the cheeks and blended it down, giving the idea of a natural blush.   

Is there a product that you particularly enjoyed using for this makeup look? 

I really enjoyed using the Baume Essentiel Transparent because it gives a feeling of dewiness to the look. It brings a really modern and natural feel which is very effective and light reflecting.

Latha Sunadh
Deputy Editor
When she's not trying on a new serum, researching on yet another classic fragrance and sharing lip balms with her 5-year old daughter, Latha Sunadh keeps it reined in with a nice song and a good book. Special skills include obsessing over handmade, home-made and handcrafted luxuries.