Lucia Pica, Chanel’s global creative designer for makeup and colour knows how to bridge subtlety with boldness and modern ideas with a heritage brand like Chanel. And Chanel’s 2019 Spring-Summer Haute Couture show is all about these contrasts. Straight from David Bowie-inspired bouffants by maverick hair stylist Sam McKnight to a gorgeous dark turquoise eye look created by Pica that came together with quintessential Chanel reds, the show had all the trappings of feminine style punctuated strongly with contemporary elements and drama. The star of the show was the new-age smokey eye that Pica constructed. Instead of the usual bold eye that takes over the whole lid, the look had a smoky eye that floated above a horizontal slash of liner under the lower lashes. A hint of white liner was used to create an illusion of bigger eyes alongside red lipsticks. In this interview, Pica tells us about her inspiration, her makeup tips and tricks, and why Chanel has showcased a woman who is strong and powerful.
What were your sources of inspiration for this look? What was the brief from Karl Lagerfeld?
The silhouette is 18th century but the girl has a Bowiesque feeling to her, especially in the makeup. Karl Lagerfeld sent me a sketch and it felt really like that.
How do you describe the eye look? How does one get it done?
The shape of the eye is quite rounded at the top, a blended blue with a slight teal undertone. I added a sharp graphic line going underneath the eye to add a graphic strength to it. So there is the softness of the blending of the eyeshadow on the top and the toughness of the eyeliner underneath that is straight. There is a balm shine on top of the eyelid to make it a little bit more alive and lived in.
Tell us a bit about the lips and how they contrasted with the overall look?
The lips are red and matte, the skin is quite pale and porcelain, light and groomed but not too shiny.
Overall, there is a contrast of textures with the matte lip, the balmy deep eyes, and the soft translucent skin. This contrast reflects the allure of the girl walking the show: Elegant and sophisticated but with toughness to her. She is powerful and strong.
Which products have you used for this look?
I used the Stylo Ombre Et Contour Bleu Nuit eyeshadow underneath with a matte texture on top from Les 9 Ombres – Edition N°2 Quintessence, to give the eyes more depth. I chose the colours on the eye because the navy blue with a teal undertone actually drew my attention. I love the idea that one colour coming through another colour helps give it more depth. The final touch on the eyelid is with our new product, Baume Essentiel in Transparent, a moisturising highlighting balm that gives a glossy, modern finish. For the lips, I used Rouge Allure Velvet Extreme Idéal, a matte red, and then I added a touch of Rouge Allure Liquid Powder Invincible to intensify the matte effect.
Do you have any professional tips and tricks to share with us?
It’s pretty easy to do the eye with the Stylo Ombre Et Contour Bleu Nuit: Scribble it on and then blend it with a blending brush. Then you apply an eyeshadow on top to deepen it and add more depth. You can also dab the eyeshadow onto the Les Pinceaux De Chanel Flat Eyeshadow Brush and intensify it.
Is there a product that you particularly enjoyed using for this makeup look?
My favourite product is the Stylo Ombre Et Contour Bleu Nuit – it is really easy to apply and use. The Baume Essentiel Transparent when applied on the eyelid as the finishing touch of the look, gives it more depth.