From micro pleats making a comeback on the runway to playful variations of the classic Indian tie-dye techniques, SS ’19 runways were packed with ideas that can easily translate into wearable trends. Beige knocked out white as the official hue for summer, favoured by the likes of Tom Ford and Dior. At Fendi and Prada, shorts spelled the new cool. In case you are looking for the perfect clash of prints and patterns Versace and Shivan & Narresh are giving strong cues.
Here’s how to wear them all.
The term tie-dye conjures up images of traditional Indian textiles being dyed using techniques like bandhani but the practice has been explored in an array of ways for summer. At Stella McCartney, we got hints of everything athletic and flirtatious. Among skater dresses and boiler suits, she rolled out tie-dye tees, jumpsuits, and jeans. After their Paris layover for a couple of seasons, New York-based Proenza Schouler were back in New York, showcasing a collection melding street with impeccable tailoring. Their tie-dye shirts spell everything summer. Maria Grazia Chiuri also infused an extra bit of drama to her runway show with tie-dye play-suits, midis, and tunics. Amit and Richard of Amrich re-imagined the classic tie-dye techniques in their billowing gowns, floor-grazing maxis, and summer appropriate robes at LIFW SS’19.
Tones of beige and tan
Beige and tan are the hues for summer. While at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri exhibited her love for the hue in her ballet themed show, Riccardo Tisci’s sexy skirt-suits and trenches were soaked in beige too. Tom Ford exploited his aesthetics of ‘sexy’ and rolled out light trench coats, lace hem-lined leather skirts, and even head covers in different tones of beige. At Lakme Summer Resort 2019, Jajaabor, Anita Dongre, and Sonam & Paras Modi displayed beautiful six-yard drapes in beige infused with floral prints.
Shorts are this season’s new skirts. From cycling to tailored to biker, spring summer runways were packed with this casual summer favourite. While Miuccia Prada once again balanced function with style through her intricately designed durable fabrics, Fendi rolled out the ‘hero’ streetwear piece – a tight pair of gym shorts paired with a shirt. In New York, Marc Jacobs took inspiration from the ’80s; his candy and pastel-hued short suits packed a perfect punch for the season. At Lakme Summer Resort, Narendra Kumar Ahmed veered away from his eclectic signature prêt and experimented with activewear in striking hues; his shorts in reds and oranges were a standout.
From Dior and Peter Pilotto’s T-length pleated dresses to Valentino and Fendi’s pleated skirts, summer runways clearly indicated at the resurgence of a singular trend – pleats in all its forms. Clare Waight Keller’s version of Givenchy celebrated her adoration for everything gender-bender – the dress in powder blue with almost a pleated shield-like feature was a winning look. Jill Sander too exploited subtle versions of pleats through her earthy toned breezy pleated skirts. Anavila who showcased a collection inspired by her travels to Vietnam also gave pleats a seal of approval with her micro-pleated indigo dyed skirts and tops.
Clashing prints and patterns
Houndstooth, florals, striped and much more, all juxtaposed in one look – that summed up spring runways for the likes of Versace and Dolce & Gabbana in Milan. Instead of exploring a singular print or pattern, designers looped in multiple variations for summer. While Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga created shirtdresses with thigh-grazing slits in strong graphic prints, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi created summer party dresses featuring polkas in different sizes. At Paco Rabanne and Carolina Herrera, there were floor-sweeping maxis in an array of floral prints. Beachwear veterans Shivan & Narresh once again took inspiration from European/Mediterranean arts and reinterpreted them into quirky, statement prints for sarees.