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Bollywood’s star power coupled with the best of designers showcasing their creations summed up Lotus Make-Up India Fashion Week AW’19. While Rahul Mishra celebrated his 10 seasons showcasing at Paris Fashion Week and rolled out his best designs till date, Suket Dhir made his runway debut with the collection titled Play. Namrata Joshipura remained loyal to her signature, high-octane glam aesthetic. Joining the league was Pallavi Mohan who conjured up the 80’s disco vibes through her creations. 

Besides 25 runway shows and 100 designer stalls, Bollywood also showed up; out and loud.  Karishma Kapoor was seen in a Mekhela chador closing Sanjukta Dutta’s show. Star of webseries ‘Made In Heaven’ Jim Sarbh walked for Siddhartha Tytler clad in a pair of paneled trouser and a bomber jacket while Radhika Apte was seen walking for menswear designer Pankaj Sachdeva.

Models in Little Shilpa at LMIFWAW'19. Image: Courtesy Pranav Bhasin
Models in Little Shilpa at LMIFWAW’19. Image: Courtesy Pranav Bhasin

The icing on the cake was, the grand finale, which saw designers such as Rohit Bal, Gaurav Jai Gupta, Little Shilpa, Anamika Khanna, Tarun Tahiliani and more creating different versions of the quintessential Indian saree. 

Here are some of the coolest shows from LMIFW AW’19 which stood out for us. 

Suket Dhir 

 

International Woolmark Prize winner Suket Dhir showcased ‘Play’ a collection comprising of easy ready to wear ensembles. There were velvet suits, washed brocade jackets, robes; besides this he even reinterpreted the traditional miniature paintings for prints, giving them a whimsical feel. Besides his recently released ‘Menswear for Women’ there were menswear pieces, crafted in exquisite jamdani and linen blazers fit for the coming summer. 

Rahul Mishra 
Image: Courtesy Pranav Bhasin
Rahul Mishra at LMIFWAW’19. Image: Courtesy Pranav Bhasin

Another International Woolmark Prize winner, Rahul Mishra staged a spectacular show, summing up his 10 seasons in Paris. Needless to say, every piece was a standout; the show seemed more like a colourful carnival. However the opening look of the show, which was a slit skirt paired with a blazer all in Ian Davenport inspired polychrome rays was the highlight. Then there were floor-sweeping gowns with Van Gogh sunflowers embroidered in pointillist dots; dresses with 3D appliqué, chanderi, and chikankaari work. Adding to the line ups eclecticism were tailored blazers and fringed bikini tops paired with wide-legged pleated trousers. 

Pallavi Mohan 
Not So Serious by Pallavi Mohan. Image: Courtesy Palav Palival
Not So Serious by Pallavi Mohan. Image: Courtesy Palav Palival

Thigh-high slit dresses, feathered frocks, sleek pant suits and red carpet worthy gowns summed up Pallavi Mohan’s show. With some of the best disco tunes playing on the background, Mohan rolled out specimens of the best of embroideries, surface detailing and feather work. The colour ways were not dull either, patent greens, blues, metallics and fuschia  made for a perfect collection. 

Huemn 
Huemn LMIFWAW'19. Image: Courtesy Pranav Bhasin
Huemn LMIFWAW’19. Image: Courtesy Pranav Bhasin

There is always rebellion at the core of Huemn’s designs. Pranav Kirti Mishra and Shyma Shetty have ensured to create meaning pieces, capturing zeitgeist over the years. This season saw them playing with rubber and blending it with other fabrics; once again there were exquisite embroideries inspired by the real life photographs with focus on Kashmir. Besides the cool, quirky silhouettes; face masks and sneakers there were sweat shirts replicating images of the picturesque landscape of Kashmir. What stood out for us were patchwork dresses, sweats and trousers. 

Prashant Varma 
Prashant Verma LMIFWAW'19. Image: Courtesy Pallav Paliwal
Prashant Verma LMIFWAW’19. Image: Courtesy Pallav Paliwal

Fashion is an interdisciplinary affair for Prashant Varma. So how does one blend theatrics and fashion? Varma’s show answered the question. The show began with a modern dance performance, breaking out into ballet and waltz and slowly graduating into themes of ageing, violence and romance. There were theater veterans clad in voluminous tulle gowns with velvet capes; men in tuxedos and military outfits; midi dresses and shirts were deconstructed; volumes of tulle were used to create some piece. Besides this there were glimpses of red carpet worthy gowns as well. 

Namrata Joshipura 
Namrata Joshipura at LMIFWAW'19. Image: Courtesy Pranav Bhasin
Namrata Joshipura at LMIFWAW’19. Image: Courtesy Pranav Bhasin

Looking for pure, uncompromising levels of glam? Namrata Joshipura is the designer to look out for. She presented her collection at LMIFW in association with Chivas. And sticking to her signature aesthetic, Joshipura rolled out everything sleek and red carpet worthy. To begin with, there were jumpsuits with turtle-necks; white shirts with embellished pencil heels; reinterpretations of sari, which could double as a dresses. However, the pieces which stood out were power suits in red, velvet blazers paired with embellished shorts and tailored trench coats paired with velvet trousers. 

Finale 

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The grand finale brought the fashion week to an end with all pomp and show.  It saw 21 designers showcasing their versions of the sari. While Prashant Verma rolled out his black and white sari in vinyl, Rodricks showcased hsi sleek and sexy swimsuit saris. Traditional renditions were presented by Anita Dongre, Payal Khandwala and Anavila. Tahiliani’s creations exemplified sensual drapes while Bal infused his bit of drama with floor sweeping sleeved blouses paired with decadent saris. Little Shilpa rolled out her versions of half draped saris teamed with edgy hats and Urvashi Kaur  added a pinch of athlesiure with half-draped dhotis for men paired with hoodies. Bollywood also registered it’s presence;  Diana Penty clad in a black sari opened the show, while Aditi Rao Hydari was seen closing the show in a black and gold traditional sari. 

 

Anupam Dabral
Sr. Associate Editor
It was while studying fashion journalism at London College of Fashion that Anupam developed a keen interest in the anthropological aspect of the discipline; for him, fashion only makes sense when seen in the context of its environment. He is always on the hunt for great stories, and in his spare time binge-watches films/shows starring Whoopi Goldberg, Dawn French and Jennifer Saunders.