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As one of the founders of SS Homme, the country’s top bespoke menswear labels, Sandeep Gonsalves knows a thing or two about dressing well. Not only are his days packed with melding traditional, bespoke tailoring with modern-day craftsmanship, he is himself known for impeccable dressing. Having mastered the art of stitching a suit, he also wears one to perfection. As SS Homme unveiled their 2019 collection ‘Scrupulous’ recently, we caught up with Gonzalves to discuss must-follow style rules and the codes of dressing you can’t compromise on.

Founders of SS Homme – Sandeep and Sarah Gonsalves
How would you define your style? And the one rule you swear by?

My styling choices have always been a mixed bag. But, to point out, my look has always been complementary to my mood. My style philosophy is that comfort and fit should go hand in hand, and I firmly believe that one must only wear styles that they truly feel comfortable in, that contribute towards confidence.

 

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How has your personal style evolved over the years while designing at SS Homme?

I’ve reached a stage where my personal style is a lot more contemporary, Off late, I’ve focused more on structured pieces along with more experimental additions – that I guess relates to me taking my life rules a little less seriously.

It’s the season for layering – what rules do you follow?

It’s very important to understand your personal style attributes. Dress it up and be more experimental with elements and details. Accessorising is key. Apart from prints and fabric, textures are important as well. This is layering 101.

 

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The most understated details of a suit that make a great style impression?

I can never emphasize enough on the importance of good fitting. The fit of your suit makes a world of a difference. Our approach of adhering to international standards of bespoke tailoring is to ensure that the achieved fit truly elevates the style quotient. Also, in terms of detailing, the stitch makes a great tailored addition to the jacket.

Sandeep Gonsalves in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
So that’s obviously a focus for ‘Scrupulous’ too…

Our new ceremonial red carpet collection, ‘Scrupulous’ has been designed by Sarah and I to offer fashion forward men a range of western styles designed for special occasions as opposed to a plain black quintessential tuxedo. The collection comprises of contemporary tuxedos and dinner jackets, hand-crafted to perfection.

Give us a crash course on your approach to pattern mixing.

It’s about cautious experimentation. Stick to pairing complementary colours and toning down bolder patterns by pairing it with more minimal ones. Maintain a balance in your silhouette.

 

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What are the hallmarks of a good suit?

Fit, fabric, and construction – can’t go wrong from there. It also helps to move away from monotonous colours like navy and slate grey, and working in brighter more colourful fabrics for the outfit.

The most flattering menswear trends one needs in their wardrobe today?

Move over from details, and incorporate some patterns in your wardrobe – it’s less mundane. Monochromatic palettes are big this year in terms of using different contrasts of grey or black. It’s also something that’s a constant favourite among our patrons.

All images: Courtesy SS Homme & Getty Images

Mikhail Gomes
Senior Features Writer
A watch aficionado, Gomes also enjoys learning about fine whiskies, and one day hopes to establish his own menswear label. At Lifestyle Asia India, he writes on watches, menswear, auto and tech.