You can always combat winter’s sombre mood with a bit of drama, punctuated with the right kind of coat. This fall, the usual, heavy camel coats and basic heritage tweed cover-ups are out; runways were packed with coats in the brightest of checks, metallics and with exaggerated sleeves. While Raf Simons looped in a bit of drama with his slouchy wool coats, Victoria Beckham rolled out her rendition of the classic leopard print coat. At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri veered away from winter pastels and instead played with a dash of metallics.
Here are the only coat trends you need to know before you make your big purchase for the season.
This fall saw signature winter offerings with a bit of drama. Bell, exaggerated and embellished sleeves did the talking. Dries Van Noten not only looped in a variety of prints and textures but also got rid of the usual coat sleeves for the more exaggerated ones. Miuccia Prada gave her quintessential 60s girl old-school parkas and coats with puffed-up shoulders and big dramatic sleeves. At Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturi Fendi used fur lapels on sleeves of their boxy shouldered coats to make them look more voluminous. Others who deconstructed the sleeve were Balenciaga and Marc Jacobs.
Though leopard and other wildlife inspired prints may be frowned upon for being traditional, this fall is about re-imagining them. Among his shearling fireman jackets for men and women, Raf Simmons gave nod to a perfect Upper East Side classic, a leopard print fur coat in his line. Tom Ford gave his 80s disco girls a perfect winter cover up in the form of his leopard coats, with a dash of colour. Victoria Beckham, who celebrated 10 years of her label this year, knows how to push boundaries discreetly. Apart from her minimal belted coats, she did not shy away from rolling out a classic leopard print coat. Max Mara and Roberto Cavalli were game too.
Fall runways saw a number of designers giving checks a wild spin. Leading the pack was maverick Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga, who fused his tweed and wool heavy collection with oversized checks for his fall presentation. Raf Simmons too reinstated his faith in the classic print and recreated a bold version of it in subdued tones. Michael Kors completed his urbane and sophisticated line of tweeds, tartans and plaids with checks in hues such as military green, canary yellows and reds.
At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s tribute to the 60s was completed with knitwear, high-waist skirts, ankle length boots and long metallic coats. Alessandro Michele’s presentation at Gucci was packed with drama, and alongside his signature mosaic-like prints and bandana head scarves, he created short coats with bell sleeves. Olivier Rousteing of Balmain also followed the trend with quilted metallic coats.
Leather and Vinyl
Besides prints and silhouettes, fall runways saw a number of designers experimenting with an array of textures, with leather and vinyl took centre stage. Jonny Johansson of Acne Studio, who can be always be counted upon to fuse sports with luxe, put his faith in the traditional classic – a full-length leather coat for fall. At Max Mara, it was all about exhibiting feminine strength, and Ian Griffith the creative director, ensured that the message went out loud and clear via a striking black leather coat, layered over a leather skirt and trousers. Vinyl also seemed a hot favourite among the designers – the green Marni oversized coat and Calvin Klein’s blue belted number were winter wardrobe goals.