From Dior’s exquisite shirts (inspired by womenswear couture) to Valentino’s edgy overcoats to Karl Lagerfeld creating sketches for Fendi menswear (for the first time), this fall was packed with sartorial finery for today’s picky gentlemen. Here is our edit of some of the best looks from menswear collections that will surely give you enough cues on how to upgrade the trend wheel this year.
Hermès Menswear Fall 2019
Véronique Nichanian’s take on simplicity manifests through her playful take on luxurious textiles but that comes with an underlying simplicity we quite often don’t see. Classic silhouettes in rich colourways summed up, Nichanian’s fall menswear showcase. And among those leather jackets, which could double as shirts, shearling collared bombers and overcoats stood out this three-button suit in quilted wool flannel, layered over a high neck. The tailoring of the trousers in the ensemble was uncomplicated; an old-school single pleat always works.
JW Anderson Menswear Fall 2019
JW Anderson though his design form weaves a narrative reflecting upon the current socio-political climate. At his latest menswear presentation, there was a sense of rebellion balanced with Anderson’s creative chaos. Too many cultural insignias clubbed into one runway show, that’s his aesthetic, so be it medieval-age-inspired woollen hoodies with ribbed detailing, Californian bloomer shorts or billowing Middle-eastern silhouettes, it all seamlessly came together. But his opening look, comprising of a long woollen shirt with elongated sleeves paired with a detachable shearling collar, tied around the neck with a pussy-bow inspired knot; airy black trousers and the chunky-soled Run Star Hike (part of his ongoing collaboration with Converse) made it to our cut.
Valentino Menswear Fall 2019
For Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino this menswear season was all about taking maison ’s identity beyond a traditional couture house; blend in streetwear but let the classic tailoring do the talking. He collaborated with Jun Takahashi of Undercover, the Japanese high-end streetwear label to create a line of sci-fi illustrations inspired by Edgar Allan Poe. Among a cluster of overcoats, parkas, and knits emblazoned with Takahashi prints, this simple sweat with a hoodie stood out. It’s pairing with charcoal-grey cargo pants was an edgy add-on.
Louis Vuitton Menswear Fall 2019
Virgil Abloh presented his second collection for Louis Vuitton menswear. This time, it was a tribute to music icon Michael Jackson. One might consider, Virgil trying to blend street and couture, but his understanding of archival LV specimens stands out. Yes, there were oversized parkas and puffers but what stood out for us as an ode to the classic luxury? This double trench coat in powdery, charcoal-grey crocodile-embossed nubuck leather, layered over a cotton-jersey black tee-shirt paired with black strapped evening trousers and purple work gloves in cotton intarsia knit made a classic case for Abloh’s narrative at Vuitton.
Dior Menswear Fall 2019
Kim Jones for his third menswear presentation at Dior collaborated with U.S. artist Raymond Pettibon. Though this time, Jones gave runway a toss for a 250-foot conveyer belt, where he rolled out exquisitely tailored suits, animal print tops and winter stoles incorporated as a part of jackets and formal coats. Among all this finery the opening and the last look made it our cut. Jones appreciation of couture was reflected in a Pettibon owl painting, intricately embroidered on a vest, layered over a black suit. The closing look comprised of a buttoned-down shirt, which featured a Pettibon version of Mona Lisa; the shirt took more than 1600 hours of hand beading to complete.
Berluti Menswear Fall 2019
A transplant of Dior at Berluti, Kris Van Assche, went back to the roots of the Italian heritage brand. It was a pure appreciation for leather and exquisite craftsmanship that goes behind making those signature shoes. Van Assche looped in some clean-cut leather for his runway debut as well. Usage of striking colourways (think reds paired with pinks and different tones of greens in a co-ord suit) and then there were ample leather bombers with shearling collars and long coats. His first look summed up his understanding of Berluti’s essence; a clean hand-cut suit in patinated brown leather, layered over a shirt baring print inspired by the colour blotches left behind on the marble slabs, where for over a century exquisite Berluti footwear has been polished and refined.
Versace Menswear Fall 2019
Even though fashion cognoscenti might be questioning Versace’s commitment to its puritan Milanese aesthetic after the Michael Kors deal, Donatella through her recent menswear fall presentation once again gave a clear signal of the label’s commitment to Italian craftsmanship with a bit of tongue-n-cheek play. This time it was Gianni’s early 1990s bondage iconography that took centre stage. From shirts, tee-shirts to even bombers, the harness print was everywhere. This look comprising of a striking red shirt with bondage prints, layered under a slouchy black suit with a safety pin badge summed up this season’s Versace menswear vibe for us.
Fendi Menswear Fall 2019
Fendi’s menswear showcase was packed with neatly tailored suits, ‘Fendi’ logo-ed shearling jackets and overcoats. Silvia Venturini Fendi ensured that her line strikes a perfect balance between classic menswear insignia’s, seen in the classic silhouettes and an ode to the futuristic aesthetic with dual toned suits and head-to-toe metallic sheen ensembles. It is to be noted that Karl Lagerfeld’s association with Fendi began in 1965, but it is for the first time that he created sketches for the label’s runway shows and his stroke was visible in his signature ‘Lagerfeld’ collar. Layering game stood strong in the look with a turtleneck, layered under a zipped top with ‘Lagerfeld’ collar and a grey overcoat paired with camel-hued trousers. It was Fendi done right.