The Paris Haute Couture Week always coincides with the launch of several Haute Joaillerie collections in the city. For Gemfields this included a new collection of rings featuring emeralds and rubies unveiled at Journées de la Haute Joaillerie. We catch up with Emiley Dungey, Marketing and Communications Director at Gemfields, and talk about why she loves a good ring, the trends that she can count on her fingers and the surprise element, aka bejewelled sunglasses.
Emiley Dungey on Gemfields Haute Joaillerie launch for 2023:
What inspired rings as the key focus for the Haute Joaillerie collection?
What isn’t there to love about a really good ring? A good ring can be deeply meaningful and sincere, as much as it can be wildly bonkers. It can be a real talking point, the statement of the outfit… or the understatement of the outfit. Add a coloured gemstone and it’s the mischievous wink of character that enlivens a work suit, adds personality in a flash, and lifts a grey day.
The collection of rings featuring Gemfields’ Zambian emeralds and Mozambican rubies that was unveiled during Paris Haute Couture Week is a testament to the versatility and personality of coloured gems. Each piece tells a story, from Shachee Fine Jewellery’s show-stopping hummingbird and flower ring, featuring delicately hand-woven gold lace and ruby cherries, to Fehmida Lakhany’s striking take on yin and yang. I find myself mesmerised by reflections of the central fire opal dancing in the emerald petals of Bina Goenka’s creation. I would be willingly distracted all day. The collection is a real tribute to each of the clever hands behind each brand that made them, and boasting responsible coloured gemstones that the wearer will be proud to flaunt.
What are the key trends in designs for rings this season?
Three immediately come to mind. Firstly, the trend of owning one’s birthstone continues to rise. AYA’s Three-Stone Ruby Ring works perfectly here. A ring is a wonderful place to wear a birthstone, as the gem can touch the skin, which is of great importance in some cultures. Secondly, I’ve seen a particular trend for pinky rings this season – offering an opportunity for something a little more fun or experimental. House of Meraki’s emerald ring in our collection would be the pinky ring to end all pinky rings, with dozens of playfully-set emeralds dancing about in the light. And thirdly, the show stopper – a trend for some time now and going nowhere fast. And here we are spoiled for choice. Fabergé’s Game of Thrones dragon-inspired Ring could stop traffic (or dragons). Margery Hirschey’s Selene Ring bathes the quirkily-set rubies in a soft, warm, golden glow, and can I get away with mentioning Shachee and Bina Goenka’s delicious creations again…
Adding to the delightful rings, the Gemfields Haute Joaillerie collection also has a beautiful curation of bejewelled sunglasses created by Francis de Lara, a niche fine jewellery eyewear brand based in London. Each beautiful set of frames from the brand is handmade in Florence using traditional techniques with precious metals (like 24k gold and sterling silver) and gemstones. The styles are inspired by the Renaissance era and each of the three bespoke frames is enhanced with Gemfields Emerald. “The FDL Editions by Francis de Lara collection is inspired by Italian Renaissance jewellery textures, including the ’telato’ linen texture for the Supersize Aviators, and the ‘rigato’ grosgrain ribbon texture which is present in both the Pentagons and Ribbon Hearts. The signature teardrops are inspired by Renaissance religious statues and iconography which miraculously ‘cry’ real tears, and the serpent obsession I entertain is visible in the delicately undulating side-temples,” shares John-Paul Pietrus, Creative Director at Francis de Lara.
All Images: Courtesy Gemfields.