The new canvas for jewellery is not held back by traditions. Gold, diamonds and emeralds might personify precious jewellery trends in India but there are a handful of designers who are challenging conventions by using wood, glass, biodegradable waste and concrete in their designs. Here are the names who are experimenting with alternative materials and creating head-turning pieces.
Influenced by their global travels, Anupama Sukh Lalvani and Sonal Sood launched their jewellery label En Inde in 2004. The need to do something different and ensure that their point of view stood out in a market filled with traditional jewellery design, led them to seek inspiration from tribal techniques; they have experimented with patwa, an ancient Rajasthani technique of winding thread, to create tribal-inspired jewellery. In ‘Nauru’, one of their collections inspired by African rainforests, they have also experimented with coloured jute. Their collection ‘Orissa’ is about layering beads, leather, and thread together with pieces of steel.
Launched in 2005 by New York-based designer couple Deepa Gurnani and Jay Lakhani, the luxury jewellery label boasts of exquisitely crafted colourful tasseled earrings, beaded and crystal neckpieces, and cuffs made in plastic and rhinestones, all of which sum up Gurnani’s eclectic body of work. For the duo, handmade is luxury and through their one-of-a-kind pieces that showcase Indian techniques, they have also ensured they give local artisans a livelihood.
If you are looking to take a detour from everything metal, then Jesrani’s pieces will intrigue you. From using biodegradable materials and glass beads to different kinds of fabrics, this Parsons graduate has taken the cause of sustainable jewellery forward. Not only does she create pieces in semi-precious stones, wood, shell pearls, synthetic agate, threads, and acrylics, she has also crafted India’s first 3D printed sustainable jewellery. Another standout feature: A striking colour scheme.
One look at Dar’s jewellery pieces and it’s evident that an India-inspired colour palette is at its heart. Add to that a variety of materials and what you have is whimsical designs that seek inspiration from nature – think parakeets, oxe-eye daisies and fruits. Her neckpieces, earrings (featuring the wide-eyed motif), chunky cuffs and bangles are made using beadwork, traditional Indian embroideries with coloured threads and different types of plastic.
One might not consider wood to be a material worthy of being transformed into exquisite jewellery, but Mumbai-based Razia Kunj proves otherwise. Her hand-painted pieces stand at the intersection of art and design and find inspiration in Indian folklore and tribal art. From different types of wood to rudraksha beads to cotton cords, she creates a wide variety of pieces ranging from wooden earrings to wooden bangles.
Greytone Jewellery by Aditi Sharma
Interior designer-turned-jeweller Aditi Sharma found a new way of indulging with architecture, design and concrete. From New York’s Chryslar Building to the Parliament of Dhaka, her label Greytone is all about pieces inspired by different architectural wonders from the world over, crafted in concrete, grass and steel. The 33-year-old retails out of reputed stores such as Ogaan, Good Earth and Bungalow 8