Home > Style > Jewellery > Modern Mughal: Indian brands re-inventing uncut or polki jewellery for everyday use
Modern Mughal: Indian brands re-inventing uncut or polki jewellery for everyday use

Polki or uncut jewellery is no longer the prerogative of the bridal party. Established jewellery brands and upcoming designers are now using polki and uncut diamonds to create modern, minimalistic pieces that are traditional with a twist.

Mira Rajput Kapoor in the Carnation locket from Sunita Shekhawat
Mira Rajput Kapoor in the Carnation locket from Sunita Shekhawat

The history of polki or uncut diamond jewellery can be traced back to the Mughal era. Introduced in the Mughal court, these natural unpolished diamond pieces have adorned aristocratic necklines for aeons. Mushrooming into popular consciousness, courtesy of period dramas like Jodha Akbar, polki sets became the epitome of royal luxury and soon translated into the go-to piece for brides everywhere.

But what happens when you wish to look beyond the wear once and store in locker ideology and look for pieces that capture the raw edginess of the polki but in a contemporary package? We suggest you opt for micro polki — prêt or everyday jewellery pieces crafted with polki or uncut diamonds as well as crystals in similar settings. If you’re inspired to wear a piece of this fusion style of jewellery, much like Mira Rajput Kapoor on her recent holiday to the Maldives, then check out these fabulous labels.


Founded by jewellery designer Aditi Amin, Uncut is one of the forerunners in the space. A former investment banker, Amin started the label to create something new yet rooted in Indian tradition. With actor Soha Ali Khan playing muse, Amin’s jewellery breaks away from conventional jewellery styles to create pieces of hook earrings, open-ended bracelets, cocktail rings and dangler necklaces. Even the more ostentatious design imbibe this minimalistic ideology by combining smaller uncut pieces.
LSA Picks: The Shard Polki Cuff (Rs 62,500)

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Anu Merton

The beauty of micro or minimalistic polki trend is the way they can be layered together. Capturing this essence is Anu Merton, one of our favourite jewellery accounts to follow on Instagram. Merton’s personal style is an eclectic mix of modern and old-world polki pieces. This automatically translates into her jewellery designs. Even the website reflects Merton’s eccentric style and is in half parts a blog and an e-commerce website. A backdrop of white mulmul and Merton’s stacks of chains or bracelets create the mood to imbibe the modern Mughal aesthetic into your wardrobe.
LSA Picks: A natural crystal is highlighted with gold and Navratana stones in the extremely delicate Kevda Clear Quartz Ring (Rs 40,800).

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If you’re looking for a mix of polki and colourful stones, then Moi is a treasure trove of options. Founded by the husband-wife duo of Kunal and Puja Shah of Aurus fame, with the idea of creating pret jewellery that is practical and wearable. While the designs and the in-house artisans are rooted in tradition, the result is modern and functional. The Khoob collection combines Indian motifs, gemstones, and craftsmanship to create modern heirlooms.
LSA Picks: India-inspired trinkets with uncut diamonds, rubies, emeralds, amethyst, tourmalines and pearls are strung together in the Revival necklace (Rs 1,35,754).

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Turning Rajasthan’s rich history of jewellery making into a contemporary label is Aavriti R Jain’s label, Dhora. While the ethos is old school, the designs at Dhora are modern, minimalistic pieces that can be worn daily. Beaten gold metal, elements of wood, semi-precious stones and enamel come together to create these fashion jewellery pieces.
LSA Picks: The Baby Fish Choker Necklace (Rs 5,000) for their delicate yet quirky touch.

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Vamika is a family-run silver jewellery brand based out of Jaipur that marries craft with contemporary designs. Located in the hub of the jewellery making industry gives the brand an edge in creating well-crafted styles. Their Tukra collection brings together smaller semi-precious polki pieces together in a contemporary set-up.
LSA Picks: The Delicate Tukra Necklace (Rs 3,500) comes with polki charms and an adjustable length making it a worthy option.

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Hero Image: Courtesy Uncut by Aditi Amin Instagram. Featured Image: Courtesy Mira Rajput Kapoor Instagram. 

Akshita Nahar Jain
Sr Associate Editor
Akshita Nahar Jain has worked with various publications, including Elle, Harper’s Bazaar Bride, and Time Out Delhi, and written extensively on fashion and lifestyle. A sucker for alliteration and stylish sitcoms, she enjoys scrolling the web for less travelled destinations.
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