Yesterday, India loomed large at the Paris couture runway with Rahul Mishra’s Spring Couture 2020 collection. If there is anyone who has truly re-imagined Indian crafts through an international lens, it is him. The 2014 Woolmark Prize winner has been a fixture in the Paris ready-to-wear calendar for the past few years but yesterday he joined the league of Iris Van Herpen and Ralph & Russo to become a guest member invited to showcase at the prestigious Paris Couture Week.
Mishra, whose work has already received rave reviews by the likes of Suzy Menkes once again took to his signature 3D embroideries and rolled out a line of dresses, skirts, gowns and floor-sweeping coats. Mishra took hints from his trip to Maldives to create some of his pieces and weaved a visually-intriguing story: the juxtaposition of black and white, embroidery-heavy pieces in ombré of blues and an overall spectrum of colours inspired by earth’s flora and fauna.
Keeping the current environmental crisis in perspective, Mishra drew inspiration from his travels, specially the scenic locales that instantly became a part of his mood board. For us, it was more of a dialogue; a visual presentation of an idyllic environment where nature seamlessly blends in with the urbanscape, an idea that has always attracted him. A string of inspiration came from the movie Madagascar too, the animated, colourful ecosystem of the jungle in the film opened up a series of ideas.
On the runway, we saw a spectrum of couture finery, pieces taking shape with his signature embroideries and some pieces are sure to make their way to the red carpets around the world. Highlighting the intricacies involved in putting the collection together, Mishra says “With pieces that have taken more than 5000 human hours to make, the collection marks a big leap for us as we establish our code”. The opening look is of a belted robe replete with heavy 3D embroidery and a yellow strapless dress with fern-inspired embroidery that really stood out for us.
At Rahul Mishra’s Spring Couture show all elements seamlessly come together. His jewellery collaborations with Anjali Bhimrajka Fine Jewels and Mehta And Sons resulted into some statement-making neckpieces and the T-strap heels by Oceedee hit the perfect high fashion notes.
All images: Courtesy Rahul Mishra