Zegna looks to the future with their Oasi of Cashmere collection at MFW

Innovation in clothes-making begins with fibres and is only truly effective when consideration is paid to the very start of the production line. This is why matter matters. Zegna’s vertically integrated structure originates in Oasi Zegna – the historic home of the brand’s values and this ensures that an exceptional level of care is put at the heart of all they do. Oasi Zegna simultaneously allows the brand to look back at the glorious past while remaining firmly focused on the exciting future. This was at the heart of Zegna’s Fall/Winter 2023 showcase at the ongoing Milan Men’s Fashion Week.

Zegna’s Oasi of Cashmere collection

The Oasi Cashmere development is central to Zegna’s Road to Traceability, and the brand says that they are fully committed to certifying its fibres as fully traceable by 2024. By working with prestigious directly owned mills – including Bonotto, Dondi, Filati Biagioli Modesto, Lanificio Zegna and Tessitura Ubertino – the brand’s position as a leading name in the creation of fine fabrics is upheld in Oasi Cashmere, which encapsulates a treasure trove of Italian craftsmanship.

It is well known that Zegna’s Artistic Director, Alessandro Satori keeps expanding the idea of the brand’s sartorial re-set by matching functions with shapes, silhouettes and textures. Materiality is crucial to his vision. “At Zegna, we have the unprecedented opportunity to create fabrics from weaving through to finishing, challenging our manufacturers, and pushing them to explore uncharted waters. This allows me to mould our silhouettes right from the matter, making sure that our commitment to innovation and excellence is rooted in every step of the process. The result is an all-encompassing language that is truly progressive,” he said in a press statement.

A notion of soft precision runs through the collection and is highlighted in the volumes of neatly designed items – cropped Bomber Jackets, elongated Coats, Anoraks, Blousons, Polo Shirts, Cardigans and Blazers that forego both lapels and collars. New sack-inspired jackets feature cropped sleeves while trousers are full. Airbrushed folds and drawn geometric patterns over longline Blousons complement corduroy and pleated suedes to imbue the collection with a vertical rhythm.

It is an unsaid rule that one must feel comfortable in the clothes they don and hence, special attention has been paid to the space between the clothes and the body which sees ease and a strong sense of design go hand in hand. Ample fits are augmented by 3D jacquards while geometric motifs are brushed onto puffed-up outerwear.

Substantial textures add depth to an array of Oasi Cashmere fabrics, which include double-faced Jacquard meltons, coated and uncoated boules, frise jacquards, felts, jerseys and textiles with brushed and needle-punched finishes.
As for the palette, while it remains muted, the structure is unexpectedly punctuated by vivid hues: serene greys meet aurora yellow while foliage brown is dashed with bacca and wine red.

A smattering of outfits feature items from the upcoming partnership with the LA-based luxury lifestyle company, The Elder Statesman – the details of which will be fully disclosed at the end of February during the Paris Fashion Week, via the second chapter of The Oasi of Cashmere platform. The dialogue behind the collection stems from the idea to offer Zegna’s expertise in fabric making to a peer that shares their values and devotion to the craft. The collection expands horizons to take on new stylistic paths alongside The Elder Statesman’s ethos of vertical craftsmanship – an idea integral to the Oasi Zegna mindset.

Watch Zegna’s Oasi of Cashmere collection here.