Under the direction of Andrea Pompillo, the Onitsuka Tiger Spring/Summer 2023 collection is unveiled in Milan — marking the brand’s fourth time participating.
In contrast to its Autumn/Winter 2022 release, where the collection is defined by oversized pieces and lots of layering, the Onitsuka Tiger Spring/Summer 2023 collection centres around the theme of Japanese minimalism. Clean, sleek accents take to the runway. Merging this subtractive aesthetic with the brand’s natural sporty spirit, Pompillo aims to reinterpret the concept in a ready-to-wear key. Japan’s metropolitan soul is still the same, but the use of fabrics and complex constructions adds to the expression.
On the front row, Onitsuka Tiger saw the likes of GOT7’s Kim Yugyeom, Baifern, Heart Evangelista, Luna Maya, Tomohisa Yamashita, Singaporean idol Glenn Yong, as well as Malaysia’s very own Daiyan Trisha, Hael Husaini, Christinna Kuan, Scha Alyahya and Awal Ashaari and more at its Spring/Summer 2023 show at Milan Fashion Week.
The messaging is clear in the Onitsuka Tiger Spring/Summer 2023 show: the most minute of details (the embroidered logo with a zigzag stitch; the seams on the hem) can turn even the simplest of garments into breathtaking designs. The body shape becomes the collection’s focus, with elements borrowed from Japanese culture.
Long drawstrings transform oversized georgette T-shirts into embossed tops. Sculpt skirts made from Japanese nylon come in pleats, resembling hakama worn by kyūdō archers. The kimono is also apparent here and there — among the cuts of the wide, fluttering sleeves of blouses, or in a beach towel assembled onto a tank top.
With its knitwear, Onitsuka Tiger spotlights the urban. The brand’s iconic jumpsuit is now reinterpreted in a wide-curved, ultra-baggy edition. Light safari nylon dresses can be shortened thanks to hidden zippers, and the miniskirts — as short as hiking pants — reshape the silhouette with large patch pockets.
The sense that fashion is two-dimensional is shed, just as Pompillo wills it. To reach that three-dimensional volume, Pompillo brings the unexpected: on top of the drawstrings and transformational pieces, there are also little dresses with rucksack-pockets meshed into the back. And while black and white are the narrative as with Onitsuka Tiger’s Autumn/Winter 2022, the latest Spring/Summer 2023 collection is also outlined by yellow and shiso green, inspired by the bright colour of Japanese basil leaves.
For its shoes, the Spring/Summer 2023 collection makes sure to leave a major impact. The iconic SERRANO shoes are adorned with bold graphic motifs, reminiscent of tiger scratches, and reintroduced as the TIRRACK model. The Japanese setta-inspired leather flip-flops are made in Japan, and the SCLAW and the SCLAW MT models are sure to be the season’s new must-haves: subtle yet stylish and high-powering.
The baseball cap, among the collection’s accessories, brings to mind the typical sun shields often used by the Japanese, complete with a brim on the front and back. The bags, embroidered with the logo and the Claw Stripes are inspired by classic bowling bags. It is easy to see what Onitsuka Tiger aims to be with its brand as it continues to present a contemporary collection — combining fashion with sports, and heritage with innovation.
Here are the 9 best looks from the Onitsuka Tiger Spring/Summer 2023 collection.
(All images from Onitsuka Tiger)