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Review: from old Naples to modern day at Milano Pizza & Wine

The 80s are back, in a way, at the new Milano Pizza & Wine.

If you’re hoping for a reincarnation of a now-closed pizza chain with a similar name, you’ll be disappointed. Instead, Milano is a new concept by SJS Group, the same people behind Pasta Bar, Bar Milano and Burrata Bar.

Intentional or not, the restaurant nods to the era when the chain was popular with a playlist spanning Talking Heads to The Cure. Pastel-streaked furniture, granny lamps and an ornate painting of the owner’s dog Charlie add to the synthpop-meets-steakhouse vibe.

milano pizza wine
(Image credit: Milano Pizza & Wine)

The pizza, however, is unmistakably modern. Milano worked with pizza consultant, author and self-proclaimed Pizza Czar Anthony Falco to create what they call Neo-Neapolitan pies, which uses a sourdough technique to shake up the classic Neapolitan pizza.

The base is derived from a mixture of Australian stone ground organic wheat flour, Italian pizza flour and sourdough starter, which is leavened for 24 hours then baked at a higher temperature. According to them, this results in a charred, airy crust and sturdy base that holds toppings together without turning soggy.

milano pizza wine
(Image credit: Milano Pizza & Wine)

Milano calls their wines “crazy interesting,” which is a bit of a stretch due to the proliferation of progressive wine bars in Singapore today. Still, it’s worth a look. There’s a preponderance for indigenous Italian varieties and styles, and a section dedicated to biodynamic and natural winemakers.

A tart and buttery white Beaujolais, for instance, agrees with a Mortadella & Burrata Sicilian Grandma Pizza (S$27). Rectangular and thick crusted, with a honeycombed interior similar to focaccia, it’s crunchy, soft, and holds up under the runny stracciatella.

Mortadella & Burrata Sicilian Grandma Pizza (Image credit: Lifestyle Asia)

A bright, slightly smoky Catalonian rosé is a complement to the Bagna Cauda Steak Tartar (S$22). The dish is delicately smooth and umami, which is brought further into focus by the wine’s sharpness. Just as outstanding is the puffy pane fresco that accompanies the starter. Made from the same dough as their pizza, it’s utterly light yet chewy, with a gently tart bite.

All pizzas are baked in 12-inch portions, and they range from classics like Margherita to this sweet Crab & Lobster Bisque Pizza (S$42), with earthy dill and salty pops of caviar. The restaurant brings out a bottle of house-made chilli oil without asking – every pizzeria should be doing this – for you to submerge the crust in.

Crab & Lobster Bisque Pizza (Image credit: Lifestyle Asia)

Dessert at Milano fittingly only consists of pies (S$18 each), which come in thick, towering slices. The zesty Amalfi Lemon Meringue Pie has a cloud-like, marshmallow texture, and the Tiramisu is bittersweet and creamy. The former pairs gorgeously with the House Made Limoncello (S$10), which was inspired by Director of Restaurants Darren Micallef’s grandfather. “It’s something he made in the garage,” he said. We would like to think that happened back in the 80s.

Milano Pizza & Wine is located at 10 Craig Rd, Singapore 089670. Book here.

Mondays to Wednesdays, 6pm to 10.30m
Thursdays to Sundays, 12pm to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm

Jethro Kang

Jethro enjoys wine, biking, and climbing, and he's terrible at all three. In between them, he drinks commercial lagers and eats dumplings.

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