Though we live in a time where being known as a gentleman is less than common, the phrase definitely still carries with it an image and values that carry over into contemporaneity. Class, refinement, good taste and an impeccable sense of style remain calling cards of gentlemen throughout the age. When it comes to the latter, every modern gentleman can testify to the significance of a treasured timepiece as the purest manifestation of timeless style, as oxymoronic as that sounds. A brand that understands that philosophy, and has applied it to the watches it has crafted since 1828, is H. Moser & Cie.
H. Moser & Cie may not have the same widespread recognition as some other big-name watch brands, but that is because the Switzerland-based watch house does not need to boast to convey its luxuriousness. Two centuries ago, H. Moser & Cie were making watches for Russian royalty, and in the 2000s, it crafts its immaculate timepieces for modern gentlemen in the know. A look at its Perpetual Calendar collection is a testament to that, and how the brand has an affinity for bridging watchmaking tradition with designs that appeal to gentlemen throughout the ages.
Let us take a closer look at these horological masterpieces and convince you why the H.Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar timepieces should be in any bon vivant‘s wristwear arsenal.
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD
First launched in 2015, the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer collection made waves for being imbued with a fresh, adventurous spirit and a sporty disposition. This year, the storied manufacturer continues its quest for the perfect perpetual calendar with the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD, and it’s the first of its kind that displays the complication with two windows displaying the date and month.
The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD also has a look that demonstrates the brand’s penchant for sporty elegance and functionality, one that can be easily worn to black-tie dinner parties or casual cocktail sundowners on a yacht. The model is available with an eye-catching burgundy face, accented by only dots for the hour markers, letting the colour stand as the focal point.
Optimal legibility is courtesy of the two apertures, one of which reveals the month instead of with a pointer arrow. An offset small second sits at 6 o’clock, alongside a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. To keep the display unfettered by markings, the leap year cycle indicator is concealed on the movement side instead. Topping the timepiece off are H. Moser & Cie’s iconic leaf-shaped hands, which are partially skeletonised and filled with Superluminova for legibility.
Inside, the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD is underscored by a new Manufacture calibre: The hand-wound HMC 808. Besides a week-long power reserve thanks to its double barrel, the movement also beats at a healthy 18,000-vph frequency and harnesses an interchangeable escapement for easy servicing.
Beautiful both inside and out, with no complication being unnecessary or merely for show, this watch goes beyond being perfect for daily wear, but into heirloom territory, without question.
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue
Heritage watch brands can embody the spirit of irreverence with aplomb, and H. Moser & Cie proves this with a different take on their Perpetual Calendar classic, redressing it with a bold blue dial to speak to modern gentlemen unafraid to make statements.
The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue is truly a standout watch on several fronts. Aesthetically it bridges the simple elegance H. Moser & Cie is renowned for in its design with an electrifying choice of colour that instantly draws eyes, paired with a rustic kudu leather strap that captures the blurring of the traditional with the current and trendy.
The timepiece is refined on the surface, but even more immaculate within. The HMC 341 manufacture movement is used in this perpetual calendar watch, with indexes to display the month, easily adjustable with no risk to the mechanism of the watch at all. This is the watch for any assertive man with a keen eye for style and fine horology.
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity Cosmic Green
For those who prefer a timepiece that is even more minimal in aesthetic, turn to the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity Cosmic Green. Inarguably one of the purest expressions of the complication available, the timepiece shuns branding and excessive markings to become an exercise in refined understatement.
Still, this 50-piece limited edition Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity has no trouble standing out. Encased within a 42mm white gold Endeavour case is a graduated fumé finished dial that’s rendered in a rich, stunning shade of the brand’s signature cosmic green.
In keeping with the minimalist philosophy, only the essentials are left on display: A date display at 3 o’clock, a small-seconds at 6 o’clock, a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, a 12-hour marker, and a small central hand for the month.
The HMC 800 calibre within is revealed at the curved case-back, which has been designed to rest elegantly on any wrist. A leap year indicator in the shape of a star wheel completes the watch’s unmistakable savoir-faire, as does the beige kudu leather strap that accompanies it. Pared down and free of ostentation, the Perpetual Calendar Purity Cosmic Green is masculine elegance defined.
If there are any perpetual calendars that have truly embodied H. Moser & Cie’s aptitude as watchmakers for the modern man, it would be these two. It’s time to invest.