With the end of the Spring 2019 menswear shows, we’re on to Couture Week in Paris. And what better way to kickstart it than with the announcement of Victoria and Albert’s next mammoth fashion exhibition? Then there was Demna Gvasalia’s off-schedule Vetements show which took place under a bridge with an antithetical wedding banquet-like setting. On the other end of the spectrum, Clare Waight Keller’s sophomore couture collection for Givenchy was a romantic tribute, pledged in homage to the house’s late founder.
From a progressive bridal line designed by an LVMH Prize nominee to Miu Miu’s Cruise 2019 all-star cast, this is your week’s fashion round-up, as seen on Instagram.
A seminal Dior-dedicated exhibition is slated to open in 2019
London’s Victoria and Albert Museum just announced a fashion blockbuster that’ll rival that of Alexander McQueen’s record-breaking Savage Beauty in 2015. Scheduled to open its doors in February 2019, Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams will chart the feted history and most iconic works of one of the world’s most pivotal couturiers, and the impact of the six artistic directors who took over his namesake atelier — among them Yves Saint Laurent, John Galliano, Raf Simons and current incumbent Maria Grazia Chiuri.
The exhibition is set to showcase over 500 objects, including 200 rare haute couture garments shown alongside accessories, photos, films, illustrations, and Monsieur Dior’s personal possessions. Mark your calendars.
Clare Waight Keller devoted her entire Givenchy Couture collection to the late Hubert de Givenchy
In the serene gardens behind the Archives Nationales in Paris, Clare Waight Keller staged her second Givenchy couture show. It doubled up as a posthumous salute to the house’s founder, Hubert de Givenchy, who passed away three months ago. As the archival images of Audrey Hepburn and models in gowns from the ’50s to the ’70s that were in the book on each seat suggested, Waight Keller iterated the legacy of Givenchy. At the finale, Hepburn’s Moon River came on and in a poignant tribute, Waight Keller took a page from Givenchy, inviting the atelier couturiers to join her for a bow.
Demna Gvasalia presented a Vetements’ Spring 2019 spurred by his dark childhood
Having grown up in a tumultuous war-torn Georgia, creative director Demna Gvasalia didn’t exactly have the best memories of boyhood. His latest Vetements show was set outdoors under a bridge in an area teemed with migrants living in encampments along the road — an apt reflection of his then-politically troubled native country.
As for the clothing, “it was like dressing a documentary of my life,” Gvasalia told Vogue’s Sarah Mower. The first look was a skin-toned trompe l’oeil shirt made to mimic tattoos of Georgian mafias. Scan the pattern with a Vetements app, and you’ll be directed to a Wikipedia page of “Ethnic Cleansing of Georgians in Abkhazia,” the trauma Gvasalia fled from in 1993. Others — army cargo trousers, bomber jackets emblazoned with Russian expletives, barb-studded sneakers — were a retaliative nod to his past’s terrors.
Miuccia Prada roped in her famous inner circle to model for Miu Miu Cruise 2019
The exhaustive list goes on: Naomi Campbell, Uma Thurman, Kate Bosworth, Alexa Chung, Gwendoline Christie, Chloë Sevigny — even Hollywood newcomers the likes of Rowan Blanchard and Stranger Things’ Sadie Sink, too, walked the runway at the Hotel Regina in Paris.
Balmain released a va-va-voom eveningwear capsule collection
In answer to couture, Olivier Rousteing debuted the 44 François Premier eveningwear line this January, referring to Balmain’s original atelier address. Now, in the momentum of Couture Week, enters his second collection for the line. Gowns are ensconced in vivid ’70s and ’80s glamour, where drama drapes asymmetrically and swells from the shoulders. Expect friends of Olivier Rousteing to put a spin on one of these flashy numbers soon enough. The #BalmainArmy lives on.
Kris Van Assche unveiled his first nuptial creation for Berluti
Not long after dropping teasers to Berluti’s new visual identity, Kris Van Assche reveals his debuting look for the brand on Instagram. The artistic director custom designed a classic sharp white tux for groom Samuel Benchetrit who was to tie the knot with French singer and actress Vanessa Paradis last Saturday. With this, Van Assche becomes the latest designer to reveal his inaugural looks at a wedding, the other being Dior Homme’s Kim Jones who did so at The Royal Wedding via David Beckham.
Dilara Findikoglu has an all-inclusive bridal collection
London-based Turkish designer Dilara Findikoglu is anything but ordinary. Thanks to her elaborately dark aesthetic, her first few collections were labelled as a “satanic orgy” by several members of the press. The LVMH Prize-nominated designer now ventures into bridal, offering a progressive line made for gay, straight, and non-binary couples, as well as single individuals who’d like some self-love. In a quest for a virginal white wedding dress that’ll be timeless enough to pass on to your grandchild? You’ll never find it here.
Dover Street Market is opening a California outpost
News about the possible launch of a Los Angeles branch was circulated last year. The specifications of where and when were not though. In typical DSM fashion, however, the retailer has elusively updated its site with a page allocated to DSM Los Angeles. On Instagram, a short video was released, showing a still-vacant warehouse and what seems to be a ritual by Los Angeles’ energy workers to get “the juju up to speed”. According to the webpage, the store is set to open this Fall 2018.
(Main image and featured image: Victoria and Albert Museum)