Alessandro Sartori did not hold back the reins for his sophomore collection for Ermenegildo Zegna Couture during Milan Men’s Fashion Week, sending down the runway 44 looks that combined sports-inspired silhouettes with a sensual masculinity. And boy, what a show it was.
Titled ‘Sketches from a Hidden Garden’, the said hidden garden was in fact the courtyard at Milan’s Università Statale, transformed for a day into a futuristic utopia. The space was filled with tangerine pebbles inspired by the natural shade of vicuña, the exquisitely fine wool Zegna is famed for.
“To design a forward-looking men’s fashion wardrobe built around fluidity, freshness and colour but enriched by the possibility of adding your own hint of personality and style, I couldn’t imagine a better place than this courtyard, where I often spent time in my youth reading, writing and sketching,” said Sartori.
The setting was a surreal backdrop to a collection that looked almost weightless in itself. Classic shirts were replaced by deconstructed tops in various volumes. Tank tops and sweaters were paired with tailored trousers and joggers. The Triple Stitch logo synonymous with Zegna Couture was also seen on a multitude of accessories from sneakers to bags.
Colours played a major role in this collection, with spring tones of geranium, freesia, lotus, and aqua intertwining with a summer palette of walnut, vicuña, cypress, and even anthracite.
And for those who are often on the move, a lightweight blazer coming in at just 200 grams would probably be one of the feature pieces on their wish list. This is in part due to the use of premium yet lightweight fabrics Sartori selected, including the fluid washed silks, Century cashmere, and pure mohair.
The iconic Tiziano Sneaker that debuted in the Zegna Couture Winter 17 collection was also given a XXX (for Zegna’s Triple Stitch) and colour update for this season, now available in shades of green, white, moon rock grey and bleached aqua.