Though Meghan Markle’s Givenchy Haute Couture wedding gown was the talk of the town this past weekend, some of us couldn’t help but be distracted by the many other sartorial stars at her and Prince Harry’s nuptials. David Beckham, George Clooney, Nacho Figueras, and Idris Elba all rocked up to the Royal Wedding with their best fashion foot forward — and left us very much transfixed on how dapper they looked.
As you’re catching up on all the ‘best dressed’ lists, you might be wondering: What’s a morning dress? Are pinstripes as prickly as they sound? To answer all your burning questions, we break down the most common style terms for men in this fashion dictionary.
Bespoke
Used everywhere from cocktails to travel itineraries, the term “bespoke” first started out in menswear. A bespoke suit is a custom-made suit that has been tailored to your specifications. It is the pinnacle of tailoring, as a bespoke suit is crafted from the ground up to fit you perfectly. You can create your own patterns on your fabric of choice. This sets it apart from another method of tailoring, made-to-measure.
Black tie
You’re most likely to encounter this dress code when attending a formal event. The black tie uniform calls for a tuxedo (with a peak or shawl lapel) and matching trousers, a white pleated shirt, a black bow-tie, and a cummerbund. Fortunately, this standard is slowly evolving, especially with the colours and fabric. Tom Ford does a particularly good psychedelic evening jacket.
Brogues
Brogues are sturdy leather shoes with detailing done on the cap. The details are usually perforations (called broguing) and serrations along the visible edges of the shoe’s layers.
Chinos
One of the more versatile items for the modern man, chinos are a staple in every wardrobe. They were originally made for soldiers, but now everyone can wear them. They’re slightly dressier than your denim jeans but not as formal as a pair of trousers. You can wear them day to night, all year round in an array of colours.
Cufflinks
A fitting dress shirt isn’t complete without a pair of cufflinks. This piece of functional men’s jewellery will add flair to your formal outfit as they can be made of assorted materials (glass, stone, gems even) and bear various motifs and insignia. Be warned: You can only use them with shirts that do not have buttons on their cuffs.
Cummerbund
Cummerbunds are more than just another style statement. Not only does the cloth sash cover your waistline (goodbye bunched-up shirts), it catches crumbs and holds your opera ticket stubs. You can also colour-coordinate with your partner. Remember to wear it with the pleats facing upwards.
Gingham
There are many styles of checkered shirts, with gingham being one of the more popular ones. The pattern hails from the Malay word “genggang”, or striped. Anyone can look good wearing a shirt with the gingham pattern, as it hides wrinkles so even slight creases after a long day won’t be noticed.
Herringbone
This pattern can be found on wool suits in more temperate countries with cooler climates. The herringbone is a twill that alternates a diagonal weave to form its iconic “V” shape.
Houndstooth
One of the most interesting patterns is the houndstooth. Unlike standard checks and squares, the houndstooth pattern is a repeated geometric tessellation with protruding teeth that give it its name.
Lapel
The lapels on your suits and tuxedos run from your chest around your collar. There are a few types of lapels, the most popular styles being notch, peak, and shawl. Notch lapels are the most common and can be used in any social setting, be it formal or casual. Peak lapels are slightly more formal and are a power move for suits. Shawl lapels are only seen in tuxedos and evening jackets.
Loafer
Slip them on and walk out the door — that’s what loafers do best. They’re classic and timeless, suitable for both business and leisure. A classic design would be the Gucci loafers you see above. There are also penny loafers with a strap across instead of those buckles, and tassel loafers that bear decorative tassels.
Made-to-measure
There’s a big difference between made-to-measure (MTM) and bespoke clothes. MTM is the less expensive option for tailoring, as your suit is taken from a ready-made pattern and altered to your measurements.
Merino wool
Wool is one of the most prized fabrics in fashion, with the Merino blend taking the top spot. The fibres are exceptionally fine and soft. Its high elasticity also helps it retain its shape.
Morning dress
The de facto dress code for formal daytime festivities, the morning dress ensemble consists of a morning coat, a waistcoat (or vest), and striped trousers. Unlike a suit jacket, the morning coat isn’t buttoned and comes in the standard colours of black or grey (blue is a more modern pick). The waistcoat is the garment where you can add some pizzazz. The shirt’s collar should be tucked under the coat.
Oxfords
Often referred to as the most elegant men’s shoe, oxfords stand out from other shoes like derbys and boots at the laces. The lacing of oxfords is stitched closed at the bottom, whereas the laces on derbys are open. This gives it a more streamlined and formal look.
Panama Hat
It’s not a beach vacation without a Panama hat. The summer accessory is traditionally woven from the leaves of the toquilla palm and is lightweight and breathable. The art of weaving a Panama hat is also on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists.
Parka
The boss of winter wear is a long, hooded jacket that will protect you from the elements. It was invented by the Caribou Inuit of Canada’s Northwestern Territories, as they needed a garment to protect them from the frosty climate. A parka is usually lined with fur, preferably faux. It also goes by the name “anorak”, from the Greenlandic word “annoraaq”.
Pinstripes
The pattern seen in boardrooms and Michelin-starred restaurants during lunch, pinstripes are most often associated with conservative business attire. The narrow stripes usually come in grey or white, although designers can adopt a coloured stripe for a more casual look. Pinstripes help to elongate the perception of a torso, making someone look taller than they are.
Seersucker
This preppy fabric of choice during summertime is quite different from pinstripes. While it is also striped, the fabric is thinner, lighter, and has a crimped texture. The traditional colours are blue and white, but over time a variety of colours has been used by designers for more bold statements. The term originated from the Hindi word “sīrsakar”, which was itself an adaptation of the Persian word “shīroshakar”, meaning milk and sugar.
Selvedge denim
Yes, there are different grades of denim. Most of us wear mass-produced denim woven on projectile looms. Selvedge denim is produced on shuttle looms, which are now limited to a handful of denim mills located largely in Japan. Selvedge denim refers to the “self-edge” of denim. That edge of the denim has a clean, sealed finish that will not unravel, unlike typical denim which has to be stitched closed. This doesn’t mean normal denim is inferior. Jeans made from selvedge denim are just more desired because of the high price tag and demand.
Single- vs double-breasted
The most common suit style is one with a single-breasted jacket. It usually has one, two, or three buttons arranged in a single vertical column. Double-breasted suit jackets have twice the number: Four, six, or eight buttons. A single-breasted jacket is the safer sartorial option, as a double-breasted jacket needs to fit right on your body. But when done right, it’s a powerful style statement.
Suede
Suede is a variant of leather that is softer and more fibrous. While leather is the outer layer of an animal’s hide, suede is made from the inner layer. You can find it on almost anything, from bags to shoes to jackets. The biggest downside to suede is its water resistance — there’s barely any. You wouldn’t want to walk out in a storm with white suede sneakers, as that’s a recipe for disaster.
Tweed
Mention tweed and you’d think of a group of hunters out in the countryside. The quintessentially British fabric is a wool-based textile that has been tightly woven and dyed. It can come in various patterns (herringbone, houndstooth, even checkered). How do you ace a tweed outfit? If you’re wearing a tweed jacket with bold colours, make sure your shirt and pants are kept neutral to avoid clashing.
Vents
The back of a blazer is as important as the front. Vents are the slits intentionally cut into the back of your suit jacket. They date back to a time when horseback riding with a suit was the norm, as a vent (or two) would prevent the jacket from creasing. A jacket with a single vent can help hide a protruding derrière, while double-vented jackets are great for gentlemen with good physiques or for those who want a slimmer profile. A blazer with no vent is more suitable for men with leaner frames as it hugs the torso for a snug fit.
Vicuña
The world’s rarest and most expensive fabric — that’s what vicuña is. It is made from the hairs of the animal with the same name. Why is it so rare and expensive? The vicuña live in the high Alps of the Andes, and they can only be shorn once every three years, making the supply scarce. A Kiton vicuña suit would set you back a cool US$27,000 (S$36,000).
White tie
Take the morning dress and combine it with black tie and you get the most formal style of dressing for men: White tie. There are strict rules to follow when attending a white-tie event. You must have a tailcoat with a single vent at the back, and paired with a white shirt, a waistcoat, a white bowtie, and black leather shoes.
(Featured photo: Heng Films/Unsplash; Main photo: Olu Eletu/Unsplash)
Josiah Neo
Writer
Josiah Neo is a tech writer who contributes occasionally to the fashion, travel, and culture beats. When he’s not busy keeping up with the keynotes, he’s probably stuffing his face with the best Melbournian donuts (at Shortstop, BTW) or watching his favourite esports team, the Los Angeles Valiant, pummel their opponents into oblivion.
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