London Fashion Week has officially wrapped. The British leg of fashion month has proven to be far more exciting than originally thought, thanks to a pool of nascent designers redefining contemporary style. What seemed like a line-up of relatively obscure names turned into a vibrant pool of potential showcased alongside London’s best — Mulberry, Burberry, JW Anderson, and Christopher Kane to name a few.
For the coming season, cast your eyes on these talented designers who’ve made their mark this fashion week.
The aesthetic of Clueless, Daria, and the spirit of post-modern paranoia defined Ashley Williams’ showcase. The zeitgeist of this Trump-dominated, post-Brexit socio-political sphere clearly inspired Williams — countless outerwear emblazoned with “MISERY” and “PARANOIA” bejewelled barrettes couldn’t be more telling. A key takeaway from the runway: Williams has made coloured plaid great again.
Alice Temperly brought the audience down a dreamy rabbit hole this London Fashion Week. Hints of Bavarian traditional costume informed her silhouettes, with jacquard embroidery and quilted patterns elevating her soft colour palette. Temperly has never shied away from the outright feminine, and while this season is no exception, it is exceptional.
Preen By Thornton Bregazzi
If one ever needed a chaotic vision of British womanhood, Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton provided just that. At their show, nostalgic takes on familiar eras reigned. Gothic lace, romantic floral prints, in-your-face 90s check and Victorian era collars were some familiar hints, all draped or oversized for fashionable comfort. Lines from Carol Ann Duffy’s poetry were stitched onto belts and tagged earrings, underscoring the mood of the collection.
Alex S Yu
No colour was too ostentatious for Alex Yu, whose range championed cobalt blue, bright orange, pink lurex, and foiled silver in a loud-and-proud homage to the 80s. Drop waists and ruffled hems were meshed with sportswear shapes, creating a collection that tastefully screamed, “more is more”.
Shrimps was one of the most anticipated up-and-coming names at London Fashion Week, and their runway did not disappoint. The typically girlish brand sought inspiration from abstract French-American artist Louis Bourgeois and the regality of Mary, Queen of Scots to form a muted collection heavily accented by faux fur. It’s ethical luxury at its best.
In a scene where fall is defined by earthy, dark colours, Roskanda’s colour story was a cut above the rest. 70s shapes were reinvented in lush colours of cream, mustard, oxblood red and rust, elevated with a medley of textured fabrics. In honour of late designer Richard Nicoll, Roskanda infused the new Nicoll Blue colour in a number of her looks, including a tunic belted Jedi-style.