Following pitstops in London and Pitti Uomo‘s Florence, the menswear circuit has just rounded up Milan Men’s Fashion Week (MMFW). Unfolding over the course of three days, the weekend journeyed through a whirlwind of shows where Italy’s best served their next season’s sartorial offerings on a silver platter.

Yet with recent developments in the fashion calendar — Gucci, Burberry and Vetements (before it decided to drop off completely, that is) notably sparked a shift in other labels to organise co-ed runway shows — Milan’s menswear scene wasn’t as dynamically definitive as it once was.

Business of Fashion’s Angelo Flaccavento even decidedly pointed out that Milan was in the peril of losing relevancy, as it was lacking originality.  “To put it clearly: Milanese designers are looking at Balenciaga, Raf Simons and Gosha Rubchinskiy a little bit too much. The spiral of copies is so swirling, you almost get a sense of vertigo,” the fashion critic wrote.

There’s always a silver lining, though. Amid the cluster of Italian big names losing their niche in pursuit of sports luxe’s commercial viability, those who dared to colour beyond the lines of the currents stood out. From Fendi’s eclectic workwear panache to Prada’s graphic superheroes, here are the freshest MMFW Spring 2018 shows you need to see.

(Main and featured images: Ermenegildo Zegna)