Although we’ve seen the creeping influence of streetwear at Pitti Uomo for several years now, the eponymous tradeshow’s 96th edition felt like a long-overdue reconciliation between the warring institutions of sprezzatura and street. Clare Waight Keller’s S/S 2020 show for Givenchy — staged at the palatial grounds of the Villa Palmieri — contemplated sartorial dress codes in the dramatically fluid context of 2019; whereas Paul Andrew — Salvatore Ferragamo’s newest Creative Director — infused the spirit of Italian tailoring into a debut men’s collection that leaned heavily into technology and workwear.
Still, on the cobblestones surrounding the Fortezza da Basso, the atmosphere felt reassuringly classic — though admittedly much more informal than previous Pittis. Tailoring dyed in shades of taupe, beige and ochre was a popular choice among the various buyers, photographers, and peacocks in attendance. Ties and suits made their customary appearance during Day 1 of the tradeshow but — in no small part due to Florence’s 37-degree heat — gave way over the course of several days to a loucher aesthetic. From all-denim-everything to a seeming resurgence of the shirt jacket, these are some of our favourite looks plucked from the streets of Pitti Uomo 96.