Thankfully, “practical” doesn’t seem to be in the vernacular of Tomo Koizumi, the Tokyo-based designer who made his sensational New York Fashion Week debut in 2019 with a panoply of pastel puff dresses. Of course, that was before the pandemic, when dressing up for parties in gowns and cocktail dresses was still conceivable, but Koizumi’s signature style has not lost any of its appeal.
Case in point: his new capsule collection with Emilio Pucci, the Italian brand that dominated the ’60s and ’70s with its exuberant use of prints and colours. We first got a look at that explosive combination — Koizumi’s ruffles, Pucci’s prints — at Milan Fashion Week last September.
The collection boasts 11 puffy pieces in all, spanning minidresses, playsuits and separates like skirts and tops. Each piece is made with layers of organza tulle — Koizumi’s favourite fabric — that follow the swirls of Pucci’s iconic “Vetrate” print. Koizumi’s sculptural designs are enlivened with the print’s citrusy hues like tangerine, coral, light yellow, and the results look sweet enough to eat.
“I already got a lot of inspiration from Pucci designs, especially colours and colour matching,” shared Koizumi. “I really love how Pucci uses colours, I feel like it’s all harmonised. That’s the biggest thing I got inspiration from with Pucci.”
Even when bereft of colour, the pieces still retain their playfulness. There’s a voluminous cape in stark white, for example, that resembles a cloud. This can easily be paired with a ruffled shoulder bag in sherbet shades, or a cute pair of “pompom” sandals.
It goes without saying that the collection is not like anything you’d typically find on Net-a-Porter, which has exclusively launched a selection of pieces for those who are bold enough to wear them or are in need of a stylish pick-me-up.
“What I want to express with this collaboration is the same thing I express with my own collection,” said Koizumi. “I always want to bring people joy… not only with this collaboration, but for everything I create.”
The Tomo Koizumi x Emilio Pucci collection also offers the rare chance for people to get their hands on the tulle creations of the Japanese designer, who mostly makes custom designs for affluent clients and celebrities like Lady Gaga. If you’re looking for something to chase those Monday blues away, you’ve found it.
The Tomo Koizumi x Emilio Pucci collection is now available on Net-a-Porter.
Header photo credit: Net-a-Porter