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Tiffany and Co brings to life never-before-seen designs by Jean Schlumberger

Throughout Tiffany and Co’s 180-year-long history, few designers have attained the same repute as the renowned Jean Schlumberger. Now, some twenty years since his passing, the American jewellery house delves into the esteemed designer’s sketchbooks and brings to life some of his unrealised designs,

These new additions to ‘The Legendary Designs of Jean Schlumberger’ collection debuted in a private event at Paris earlier this month and are now available in Singapore for appointment-only viewings.

(Image credit: Horst P. Horst/Getty)

During his tenure at Tiffany and Co, the French designer pioneered an impressive oeuvre of whimsical motifs. Schlumberger’s ‘X’ motif, symbolising a kiss, remains a romantic icon. Textiles, such as ropes and tassels, are reimagined in precious metals. Rare and impressive jewels passed through his skilful hands, leaving his workbench as world-famous artefacts. Take for instance the 287-carat Tiffany Yellow Diamond, which made its stunning 1956 debut on Schlumberger’s famous ‘Bird on a Rock’ brooch. 

A precious few Schlumberger designs have remained on paper, locked away in Tiffany and Co. archives. But now, these are finally materialised as mesmerising high jewellery pieces. 

A select number of these are now made available in Singapore till the first week of August, joined by vintage revivals and other Schlumberger classics. Last week, Lifestyle Asia was privy to an exclusive viewing of the collection. We offer a quick look at these fascinating creations below.

Viewings are strictly by appointment only. Exclusively available at Tiffany and Co. in ION Orchard.

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Tapestry Ring

While he did not follow his family’s profession in textile making, Schlumberger found much inspiration there for his designs. Ropes, tassels and stitches often surface in his jewellery. 

The Tapestry Ring, created for the first time ever, is a stunning example of this. The ring, mounted with a 10-carat mandarin garnet, comes dressed in round brilliant diamonds and miniature tassels that are also movable — resembling handwoven fabrics.

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Surreal Shell Necklace

Sea creatures were a popular source of inspiration for Schlumberger as well. The designer often goes for realistic depictions of fish and seashells in his jewellery. This piece, created based of his sketches, sees a more contemporary approach to the seashell motif with sapphires and diamond baguettes.

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Seahorse Brooch

This Schlumberger brooch transforms the humble seahorse into a regal, bejewelled creature. Original iterations were decked in a mosaic of peridot cabochons, meant to mimic fish scales. This version, carefully pieced in pink sapphires and clusters of diamonds, is a new take on the brooch. This brooch stays true to Schlumberger’s excruciating detail on the animal’s fins, spine and body.

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Bird on a Rock brooch

Possibly the most iconic of Schlumberger’s designs. The ‘Bird on a Rock’ was made in 1956 with the Tiffany Yellow Diamond in mind. The classic design now accommodates an array of equally stunning gemstones such as amethyst and morganite.

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Dome Vine Bangle

The Dome Vine Bangle is another new piece materialised from Schlumberger’s sketches. The intricate weave of sapphires, featuring various cuts and shapes, are held together by undulating gold tendrils.

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Meduse clip

The jeweller aimed for dynamism and movement in his pieces. The Meduse clip, another classic, sees just that. Gold coils, crowned with sapphire stones, are accompanied by tendrils of flowing gold beads. The helmet of moonstone cabochons and diamonds mirrors the iridescent bell of a jellyfish.

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Fleurage Stitches Bracelet

The tour de force of the collection. This newly-materialised Schlumberger bracelet sports platinum flowers decked in over 40 carats of diamond pave and a 3-carat diamond. A hand-coil strand of 18K gold around the border adds brilliance and dimension to this hefty arm candy.

 

Jasmine Tay
Senior Writer
Jasmine Tay is the dining, culture and jewellery writer. She makes fine silver jewellery and causes mini-explosions in the kitchen when she can't afford fancy dinners. Sometimes she tells people what she thinks about art, and binges on the music of Danzig when they don’t agree.