New York Fashion Week remains the veritable provocateur of every fashion season, and for Spring/Summer 2020, the month-long repertoire of shows in the Big Apple offered more than enough talking points we’ll latch on to till London, Milan and Paris take over.
Prabal Gurung employed the runway as a medium for political activism once more by sending models down the catwalk adorned with sashes that spelt, “Who Gets To Be American?”, an obvious attack against Trump’s appalling regime. At the Lulu et Gigi runway, the torch of inclusivity was carried on by a nine-year-old double amputee who modelled one of the luxury childrenswear label’s gowns, and word has it that this young girl already has more shows lined up for catwalks to come.
Apart from these designers’ empowering oeuvres, other creative directors took their brand to new heights for a night — Ralph Lauren opened a jazz club that doubled as his runway showcase, with Janelle Monae performing to boot, while Tom Ford commandeered a decommissioned subway station as the catwalk for his Blade Runner extravaganza.
The core of our takeaways from NYFW Spring/Summer 2020 is, obviously, the trends it will saddle us with for the season to come, so let us chart a few styles that will be invading your wardrobe in the new year.
We’ve explored how the power suits from the ’80s have revived in newfangled ways across the past year, surfacing as structured suits with pieces borrowed from conventionally masculine garments.
This Spring/Summer 2020, however, power suits and louche fashion have merged into a new way of dress that celebrates the fluid feminine form with separates that ebb and flow as the woman walks. Think soft-form blazers with shoulder pads a la Helmut Lang and Jason Wu, as well as below-the-knee skirts in bold colours as seen on Tom Ford, each complete with a subtle stiletto that adds that much more oomph.
Fashion makes futuristic fabrics everyday wear with the gamut of silver garments on the runway this New York Fashion Week. Tommy Hilfiger’s collaboration with Zendaya saw a glimmering head-to-toe silver ensemble that surely turns heads, taken up a notch by Jeremy Scott’s Fembot-esque tasselled get-up, but for a more wearable take on the trend, turn to Tibi’s subtle, yet electrifying maxi-skirt worn with an elegant cream sweater.
Powder blue has gone from a relic from the wardrobes of the ’80s and ’90s to a hue is everywhere in the coming Spring/Summer. Designers like Prabal Gurung, Jonathan Simkhai and Tibi’s Amy Smilovic have merely shown us the potential of the shade that is set to dominate, but you can well expect to see it permeate the clothing racks in all manners beyond suits, coats or dresses.
Embracing fluid materials are not just the domain of power dress this season — designers have collectively been embracing the likes of silk, mesh, and other gauzy fabrics that shift with the body’s movement, offering a new window into how fashion and seduction can meld without revealing skin.
At Tom Ford, blue silk gets made into jumpsuit perfect for day-to-day wear, and Sies Marjan elevates the material into a sherbert yellow, one-shouldered cocktail gown. The best part about these near-liquid materials is that they double as practical, lightweight options tailor-made for the sweltering spring and summer window.